If you want to make a witch amigurumi, Hazel is the perfect project to get you excited for Halloween coming! Keep reading for all the details and free crochet pattern
As we get closer to fall and the leaves start to change color, I can’t help but start thinking about Halloween. This year, I thought it would be fun to design a few Halloween crochet items. This cute little witch amigurumi was super fun to make and I just love how she turned out.
Hazel is about 12 inches tall when legs are extended, including her hat. Her legs are sewn on separately so she can sit independently, but she can also stand if leaned against something. She is perfect for Halloween decorating or cuddling!
This pattern is worked in rounds and each section is worked up separately and then sewn together at the end. Have fun!
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Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I used Caron Simply Soft in Bone, Iris, and Black. I also used Red Heart Soft in Tangerine for the hair.
- Safety eyes – 8mm size.
- 4 mm crochet hook
- Black embroidery thread for the eyelashes.
- Poly-fil fibre stuffing
- Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends. Bent yarn needles work great for sewing amigurumi pieces together!
Stitches Used:
- Ch – chain
- Sl St – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- HDC – half double crochet
- DC – double crochet
- INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remining loops on hook. There are many tutorials on this on YouTube. Check one out if you’d like to see the invisible decrease in action.
Important Notes:
- Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Chain one and then start making the stitches of round 1 into the ring. If you are unsure of how to make a magic circle, check out my Magic Circle Video Tutorial.
- Continuous Rounds – Most of this pattern is worked up in continuous rounds, which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you move right into the next one (with no join). It is useful to use a stitch marker (or a piece of yarn) to mark the start or end of each round to help you keep track.
- Joining Rounds – Some parts of this pattern are worked in joining rounds, which means that you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first one with a slip stitch and than chaining 1 before continuing with the next round. Make the first stitch of the next round in the same stitch as the chain 1.
- Color Changes – Since this pattern is worked up in continuous rounds, your color changes on the arms and body may be more noticeable. If this bothers you, when you attach the arms\body, you could line up the color change in a less obvious place. As an alternative, when working in the round, this is how I make my color changes a little less noticeable: Work the last stitch of the first color right up to when you do your last yarn over. Yarn over in the new color and pull through the loop. Next, when you make your first stitch of the next round, instead of making the first stitch a single crochet, you make it a slip stitch (counts as first stitch), then continue the rest of the stitches of that round as written. If this is confusing, you can look up many tutorials on YouTube to help show this in action.
Body
Add stuffing to the body as you go.
Round 1: In black, magic circle, chain 1, make 6 SC into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)
Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)
Round 6: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-11: SC in each stitch around (36)
Round 12: INV DEC, SC in next 4, repeat around (30) Change to purple yarn.
Round 13: SC each stitch around (30)
Round 14: work this round in back loops only. SC in each stitch around. (30)
Round 15: SC in each stitch around (30) Change to black yarn.
Rounds 16-17: SC in each stitch around (30)
Round 18: INV DEC, SC in next 3, repeat around (24)
Rounds 19-20: SC in each stitch around (24)
Round 21: INV DEC, SC in next 2, repeat around (18)
Rounds 22-23: SC in each stitch around (18)
Round 24: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)
Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the body.
Then fasten off, leave a long tail to sew head onto body. Do not sew body closed.
Skirt
The skirt is worked in joining rounds, not continuous rounds. Join the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch, chain 1 and then continue with the next round.
Round 1:Make a slip knot with purple yarn. Attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loop stitches of round 14. You will be able to see the front loops because they are where you made the round of back loop stitches. Chain 1, DC in same stitch and in each stitch around. Join to top of first DC with a Sl St. Chain 2. (30)
Round 2: 2 DC in first stitch, DC in next stitch. Repeat around. Join, ch 2. (45)
Rounds 3-6: DC in each stitch around. Join, ch. 2 (45)
After round 6, join to first DC and fasten off. Use yarn needle to weave in ends.
Legs (make 2)
The legs are worked in joining rounds. This helps keep the color changes neater for the stripes. Work last stitch of first color until the last yarn over. Do the last yarn over with the new color and then join to the first stitch of the round.
Stuff the legs as you go, all the way from the foot to the top of the leg.
Round 1: In black, magic circle, chain 1, 6 SC into ring. Join to first SC with a Sl St, chain 1. (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around, join, ch 1. (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around. Join, ch 1. (18)
Rounds 4-5: SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1. (18)
Round 6: SC in first 5 stitches, INV DEC 4 times, SC in last 5. Join, ch 1 (14)
Round 7: SC in first 5 stitches, INV DEC 2 times, SC in last 5. Join, ch 1 (12)
Rounds 8-10: SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1 (12). Change to purple yarn.
Round 11: Work this round in back loops only. SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1 (12)
Round 12: SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1. (12) Change to black yarn.
Rounds 13-28: SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1. (12) Alternate black and purple every 2 rounds. 2 rounds black, 2 rounds purple. You will end with 2 purple rounds. When you are finished you will have 5 purple stripes and 4 black stripes.
Fasten off, sew top of leg closed. Make sure that you sew the top closed with the leg facing you.
Boot Cuffs
Next, make the boot cuffs at the top of each boot. Make a slip knot and join in one of the front loop stitches at the back of the boot. You will be able to see the round of black front loops where you worked the purple in the back loop only in making the legs. Chain 1, HDC in same stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a Sl St into top of first HDC. Fasten off. Use your yarn needle to hide the ends of the yarn inside the legs/boot.
Sew the legs onto the bottom of the body. Line up where you want the legs to be on the doll. I lined them up around the middle of the bottom the body, but a bit more towards the back. This is so the doll can sit without falling over. I also only sewed around the top of the legs so that they could either hang straight or fold up for sitting. **Note: Make sure you test where you put the legs to make sure your doll can sit, before fastening off your yarn. When you add the head, hair, and hat, there is some more weight at the back that may cause your doll to tip over. If she if tippy, you might need to move the legs back a bit. The back of the skirt will also help keep her upright when sitting.
Head
Round 1: In skin color, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)
Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)
Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-14: SC in each stitch around (36)
*Insert safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13. I placed them 6 stitches apart. If you are adding eyelashes, it is easier to stitch them on now before securing the eyes in place. See photo below.
Round 15: INV DEC, SC next 4 stitches, repeat around (30)
*Start stuffing the head here before the opening gets too small. Continue stuffing as you go.
Round 16: INV DEC, SC next 3 stitches, repeat around (24)
Round 17: INV DEC, SC next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)
Round 18: INV DEC, SC next stitch, repeat around (12)
Round 19: INV DEC around (6)
Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head. Fasten off and sew hole closed. Weave in ends.
Wig Cap
Round 1: In orange, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)
Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)
Round 6: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-8: SC in each stitch around (36)
Fasten off, leave a long end to sew wig cap to head later.
Adding hair: I added hair in each stitch around the edge of the wig cap. Start by cutting lots of pieces of yarn to use for the hair. It’s easier to make them long so that you can trim it off after you decide on the length you like. I made a bunch of strands of hair the same length by wrapping yarn around a book and then cutting one side. The strands I attached were approximately 15 inches long, but I did trim some off after I was finished styling her hair. Fold a piece of yarn in half and then use your crochet hook to pull it through one of the stitches on the wig cap. Then put the ends of the yarn through the loop you made to knot it (pictured below).
Next, sew the wig cap on to the head. Sew in and out of each stitch around the wig cap.
Sew the head onto the body. Line up the head on the body, making sure to keep the eyes in the center so the face is lined up with the legs. Use the tail of black yarn from the body and sew in and out of each stitch around until your head is stable. I sewed around the head a couple times and then through the middle a couple times so it is nice and secure and not wobbly. Make sure the top of the body is stuffed well. (But not so much stuffing that it’s visible through the stitches!)
Arms (make 2)
Gently stuff the arms as you go, adding stuffing only to the hand area.
Round 1: In skin color, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)
Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (9). Change to black yarn.
Rounds 5-18: SC in each stitch around (9)
Fasten off, sew the top of the arms closed. Leave a long tail to sew onto body.
Sew the arms onto the sides of the body in the second round from the top. Sew in and out of each stitch at the top of the arms.
Hat
Round 1: In black, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Rounds 2-3: SC in each stitch around. (6)
Round 4: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 5-6: SC in each stitch around. (12)
Round 7: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 8-9: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Round 10: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)
Rounds 11-12: SC in each stitch around. (24)
Round 13: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)
Rounds 14-15: SC in each stitch around. (30)
Round 16: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 4, repeat around (36) Change to purple yarn.
Round 17: Work this round in front loops only. SC in each stitch around. (36)
Rounds 18-20: SC in each stitch around (36)
Make a slip stitch in next stitch, fasten off. Leave a tail to sew onto head. Gently add some stuffing to the hat to help it keep it’s shape on the witch’s head. I mostly stuffed towards the top ¾ of the hat and left the bottom empty.
After making the hat, I added some more strands of hair around where the hat wouldn’t cover the wig cap on the doll’s head. Then, I decided to braid the front of the doll’s hair. You can choose a different hairstyle for her, if you’d like.
Sew the hat on top of the head. I only sewed around the back loops of the last round of the hat and also only attached with a few stitches at the front, back, and sides to secure the hat. I did not sew around every stitch because it made the hat loop lumpy around the bottom.
Lastly, I used a strand of pink yarn to sew a little smile onto her face. Then you are all done! I hope that you are in love with the little witch doll you made!
I hope you love your adorable Witch Amigurumi! I’d love to see it! If you share your finished projects on social media, tag @loopsandlovecrochet so I don’t miss it!
If you liked making you crochet witch amigurumi, check out the many other free crochet patterns you can find on the blog right HERE!
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