Sandy Sunset Tote – Free Crochet Pattern

The Sandy Sunset Tote has such pretty texture and is super practical too! Enjoy working up this new bag!

Introducing the Sandy Sunset Tote!! This is such a handy bag to carry all your items whether you are spending time at the beach, getting groceries, heading to markets, or are just on-the-go.  The Sandy Sunset Tote also looks great in all color combinations or in a variegated yarn, or the texture is pretty in a solid color as well.

The beautiful texture in the Sandy Sunset Tote is created by the Zeros and Crosses Stitch with rows of Single Crochet between. This stitch is such a pretty one that gives a bit of a lacy texture while also being sturdy too. If you’d like to learn more about the Zeros and Crosses Stitch, head to the stitch tutorial HERE. In this pattern, you’ll be working the Zeros and Crosses Stitch in the round, but this stitch is usually worked in back and forth rows in flat crochet projects.

The Zeros and Crosses Stitch is one of the 40 stitches included in the 40 Innovative Crochet Stitches eBook! This is a great stitch dictionary to help you learn a bunch of new stitches and reference them as needed to refresh your memory. Plus, it can be taken anywhere with you on your device – great for crocheting on-the-go! Each stitch includes written instructions, photos, and a video tutorial too! This great resource is only available for a limited time! Get all of the details here!

The Sandy Sunset Tote is made from the bottom up. First, you’ll start by making a starting chain and then working round it to create the bag base. Once the bag base increases are finished, you’ll start working up the height of the bag and adding the fun texture in the Zero and Crosses stitches!

Enjoy working up your beautiful Sandy Sunset Tote!

If you’re looking for more bag patterns to make, we have a number of them on the blog! Pictured below are some of the bag patterns on the blog for you to check out!

Free Crochet Bags on the Blog!

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The Sandy Sunset Tote crochet pattern is available for FREE for use on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Here is the Free Pattern for the Sandy Sunset Tote!

Materials:

• Light or Worsted Weight (#3 or #4) Cotton Yarn – You’ll need approximately 350 yards/315m of yarn.
  • The bag pictured is made with Premier Hipster Cotton in Desert Skies colorway, which is rated as #3 Light weight yarn.  However, this bag would also turn out great in a #4 worsted-weight cotton yarn, like a Caron Cotton Cake or any light or worsted-weight cotton yarn you may have in your stash.
• Crochet hook – 4 mm crochet hook
  • The 4mm hook is due to the Hipster Cotton being a Light #3 weight yarn. If you are using a Cotton Cake or something a little heavier than Hipster Cotton, you may want to go up to a 5mm hook.
• Yarn needle – for weaving in ends

Stitches Used:

• Ch – Chain
• Sl St – Slip Stitch
• SC – Single Crochet
• DC – Double Crochet
• Zeros and Crosses Stitch – this is worked over two rows. Zeros – formed by DC, ch 1, skip a stitch, DC ch 1 in next. Crosses – formed by Crossed DC stitches worked into the ch spaces from the zeros row. More details are in the written pattern instructions below and you can also watch the video tutorial to see a visual for the Zeros and Crosses stitch.

Gauge:

• Gauge is not important for this bag to turn out, however, for this bag pictured made with the Hipster Cotton yarn, but 8 rows of 8 SC stitches is approximately 2 inches square.

Finished Size:

• When laying flat, this bag is approx. 12 inches wide and 13.5 inches tall , not including the handles.

Important Notes:

• Joined Rounds – This bag is worked in joined rounds. At the end of each round, you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first stitch with a slip stitch. Remember to pull your slip stitch and chain 1 tight after each round so that the seam doesn’t travel as much.
• Starting Each Round – Start the first stitch of each round in the same stitch as the chain 1 or chain 2.  The chain 1 or 2 stitches at the start of each round do not count towards the stitch count of each round, however the rest of the chain stitches throughout the round count towards the total.
• Video Tutorial – I have created a video tutorial to show how the “Zeros and Crosses Stitch” works up for the body of this bag. There are also video tutorials on my channel to help with bag bases and handles. You can find these videos on my YouTube Channel here:
  • How to Crochet: The Zeros and Crosses Stitch (The Sandy Sunset Tote)
  • How to Crochet a Bag Base
  • How to Crochet Tote Bag Handles

The Sandy Sunset Tote Crochet Pattern

Base of Bag

Row/Round 1: Ch 41, SC in 2^nd chain from hook and in each chain across, make 4 SC in the last chain. Now continue around so you are working on the other side of the chain. SC in each stitch across, make 3 SC in last stitch. Join with a sl st to first SC, ch 1. (84)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 38 stitches. 2 SC in each of the next 4 stitches (these are the ones at the end of the chain), SC next 38, 2 SC in the last 3 stitches. Join, ch 1. (92)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 39 stitches. *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next. Repeat from * three more times. Then SC in next 38 stitches. *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next. Repeat from * two more times. Join, ch 1. (100)

Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 40 stitches. *2 SC in next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * three more times. SC in next 38 stitches. *2 SC in next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * two more times. Join, chain 1. (108)

You have finished making the base of the bag. Continue below to start working up the bag height.

Bag Body

Rounds 5-12: SC in each stitch around. Join, ch 1. (108)

*After round 12, chain 2 (instead of chain 1).

For the body of this bag, the Zeros and Crosses Stitch will be worked over two rounds, followed by 3 rounds of single crochet stitches. Remember to watch the video tutorial if you need help along the way.

Round 13: DC in first st, ch 1, skip next st, *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, join with a sl st to first st, ch 2. (54 DC sts with a ch 1 after each DC)

Round 14: (Crossed DC Stitches) DC in first ch space from the round below, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the top of the first DC of the round below (note that this first crossed dc stitch is done a little different than the rest of the round). *DC in next ch space, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the previous ch space, repeat from * for each space around. Make sure you work the last crossed DC stitches in the spaces before and after the last DC of the round below. Join with a sl st to first DC, ch 1. (54 criss crosses, 108 DC in total)

Note that each chain space will have 2 DC stitches worked in it. See the photo below or watch the video tutorial to check the placement of your stitches.

Rounds 15-17: SC in each st around, join ch 1. (108)

*After round 17, chain 2 (instead of chain 1)

Round 18: DC in first st, ch 1, skip next st, *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, join with a sl st to first st, ch 2. (54 DC sts with a ch 1 after each DC)

Round 19: (Crossed DC Stitches) DC in first ch space from the round below, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the top of the first DC of the round below. *DC in next ch space, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the previous ch space, repeat from * for each space around. Make sure you work the last crossed DC stitches in the spaces before and after the last DC of the round below. Join with a sl st to first DC, ch 1. (54 criss crosses, 108 DC in total)

Rounds 20-22: SC in each st around, join ch 1. (108)

*After round 22, chain 2 (instead of chain 1)

Round 23: DC in first st, ch 1, skip next st, *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, join with a sl st to first st, ch 2. (54 DC sts with a ch 1 after each DC)

Round 24: (Crossed DC Stitches) DC in first ch space from the round below, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the top of the first DC of the round below. *DC in next ch space, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the previous ch space, repeat from * for each space around. Make sure you work the last crossed DC stitches in the spaces before and after the last DC of the round below. Join with a sl st to first DC, ch 1. (54 criss crosses, 108 DC in total)

Rounds 25-27: SC in each st around, join ch 1. (108)

*After round 27, chain 2 (instead of chain 1)

Round 28: DC in first st, ch 1, skip next st, *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, join with a sl st to first st, ch 2. (54 DC sts with a ch 1 after each DC)

Round 29: (Crossed DC Stitches) DC in first ch space from the round below, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the top of the first DC of the round below. *DC in next ch space, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the previous ch space, repeat from * for each space around. Make sure you work the last crossed DC stitches in the spaces before and after the last DC of the round below. Join with a sl st to first DC, ch 1. (54 criss crosses, 108 DC in total)

Rounds 30-32: SC in each st around, join ch 1. (108)

*After round 32, chain 2 (instead of chain 1)

Round 33: DC in first st, ch 1, skip next st, *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, join with a sl st to first st, ch 2. (54 DC sts with a ch 1 after each DC)

Round 34: (Crossed DC Stitches) DC in first ch space from the round below, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the top of the first DC of the round below. *DC in next ch space, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the previous ch space, repeat from * for each space around. Make sure you work the last crossed DC stitches in the spaces before and after the last DC of the round below. Join with a sl st to first DC, ch 1. (54 criss crosses, 108 DC in total)

Rounds 35-37: SC in each st around, join ch 1. (108)

*After round 37, chain 2 (instead of chain 1)

Round 38: DC in first st, ch 1, skip next st, *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, join with a sl st to first st, ch 2. (54 DC sts with a ch 1 after each DC)

Round 39: (Crossed DC Stitches) DC in first ch space from the round below, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the top of the first DC of the round below. *DC in next ch space, then go back and DC behind your stitch into the previous ch space, repeat from * for each space around. Make sure you work the last crossed DC stitches in the spaces before and after the last DC of the round below. Join with a sl st to first DC, ch 1. (54 criss crosses, 108 DC in total)

Rounds 40-42: SC in each st around, join ch 1. (108)

In these next few rounds, you will be working the handles/straps for the bag. If you would like a longer handle/strap, you can add chain stitches as needed to increase the length. If you would like a shorter handle/strap, you can just chain less stitches than written in the pattern.

Round 43: SC in first 27 sts, chain 75, skip 25 sts, SC in next 28, chain 75, skip 25 sts, SC in last 3 stitches, join, ch 1.

*If this handle placement is not lining up in the center of your bag or your handles aren’t lining up with each other, please see the “Placing the Bag Handles” instructions below before continuing further.

Round 44: SC in each st around (and into each of the ch sts forming the handles), join, ch 1.

Rounds 45-47: SC in each st around. Join, ch 1.

*After round 47, do not chain 1. Fasten off and weave in ends.   

*Note: If you’d like a wider handle, you can repeat round 47 one or two more times before fastening off.

Placing the Bag Handles

Please note that your seam may have travelled differently than in the bag pictured. If the handle placement in round 43 does not line up in the middle of your bag, you can easily modify the instructions to move your handles. I show this in the How to Crochet Tote Bag Handles Video Tutorial, or you can follow the written instructions below.

Lay your bag flat, measure it across and mark the stitch in the center. Then count 12 stitches on either side of the center stitch and mark those. This is the section of stitches you’ll be skipping for the handle placement (25 stitches in total) so keep a stitch marker at the start and end of that section. Repeat for the other side of the bag and make sure the stitches you marked lined up on both sides so the handles line up.

Once you’ve marked the stitches you’ll be skipping, just SC as you normally would until you get to the first marked stitch, chain 75, skip the 25 stitches, then SC in each stitch around until you get to the first marked stitch on the other side, chain 75, skip the 25 stitches, then SC in the rest of the stitches until you finish the round. Join, ch, 1. Then follow rounds 44-47 above.

Once your handles are placed and you’ve finished the last few rounds of the pattern, you are all done!

I hope you enjoyed this crochet pattern and love your new Sandy Sunset Tote!

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*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!