Easter is coming, but there’s still plenty of time left to work up at least one Easter Bunny Bag! They’ll be perfect to fill with some eggs or special Easter treats!
This Easter Bunny Bag is perfect for filling with Easter treats, or just a fun pattern for spring! The body of this bag is worked up using the tapestry crochet technique to create the bunny image. Then you’ll add the fluffy pompom tail after finishing the top of the bag.
This bag is unlined, but you can sew a lining in after, if you prefer to have a lined bag.
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The Easter Bunny Bag crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!
- Worsted Weight (#4) Yarn – Cotton or acrylic yarn will work for this project. The bag pictured here was made with WeCrochet/Knit Picks Shine Worsted yarn in the colors White, Crocus, and Reef. You’ll need approx. 100 yds of yarn. Most of the yardage is in white, with only a few yards of blue and purple needed.
- 4 mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle to weave in ends
- Ch – chain
- Sl St – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- BLO SC – single crochet in the back loops only
- When laying flat, this bag measures approximately 5” wide and 8” tall.
- Gauge is not critical for this pattern to turn out, however, for reference, 2 inches square is approximately 9 rows of 10 SC stitches.
- Joined Rounds– This bag is made in joined rounds. At the end of each round, the last stitch of the round will be joined to the first stitch with a slip stitch. Then chain 1 and start the next round in the first stitch, which is the same stitch as the join. To keep more seam more hidden and from traveling much, be sure to pull the joining slip stitch and the chain 1 nice and tight. Chain 1 stitches do not count towards stitch count of each round.
- Back Loops Only – All of the single crochet stitches for the body of this bag are worked in the back loops only (BLO). However, slip stitch joins are worked through both loops.
- Color Changes – The bag body is worked in tapestry crochet. This means you will be changing from the main to accent color often and carrying the color you are not using along with you under/behind your stitches. To change colors, complete the last single crochet in the first color up until the last yarn over. Yarn over with the new color and pull through last step of the single crochet stitch. So, your SC will go like this: insert hook into last stitch in the first color, pull up a loop, yarn over with the new color, pull through all loops on hook. Now you will be working in the new color until you change colors again.
- Tapestry Crochet Tips – You will be carrying the inactive yarn color behind the active yarn you are using. Try to keep your tension a little on the tighter side to help keep the stitches tightly together and hide the yarn you are carrying from showing between the stitches. The purple yarn does show a little bit through the white when it is carried along, but I think it also adds a nice speckle to the stitches too and isn’t too noticeable.
- Video Tutorial – If you need any help while working up this pattern, please watch the video tutorial for our Christmas Tree Bag crochet pattern. This bag is worked up in the same way, including the tapestry crochet section for the bag body.
Easter Bunny Bag Base
Row/Round 1: In white, ch 24, 2 SC in 2nd ch from hook, SC in next 21 sts, 4 SC in last stitch. Continue around so you are working on the other side of the chain. SC in each stitch across, 2 SC in the last stitch (this will be in the same stitch as your first 2 SC of the round). Join with a sl st to first SC, ch 1. (50)
Now you will start the body (height) of the bag. For this section, you may choose to follow the written instructions for all the bag rounds below, or you may follow the graph.
- Each box counts as one single crochet stitch (in the back loops only).
- Graph is worked from bottom to top, either right to left or left to right.
- The graph is 25 stitches, however the bag is 50 stitches around. Repeat the graph twice to get the 50 stitches. You’ll have a bunny on each side of the bag. Note that if you’d only like a bunny on one side of the bag, just do the bunny section once and continue in the white yarn the rest of the way around the bag.
- For the blue stripes on rows 2, 4, 25, and 27, you do not need to carry your yarn. When you complete the color change at the end of the round, just drop it and pick it up when you need it again. When you finish the second blue stripe in the set, work over the yarn tail a bit to secure it and then cut the blue yarn, keeping the white yarn connected.
- To attach the purple yarn, start working over it at the start of row 6, and then it’ll be nice and secure for when you need it part way through the round. Carry the purple/white yarn under your stitches when you are working in the other color and pick it up when you need it again.
- After row 28, refer to the written instructions below for the top section of the bag.
- The written instructions below indicate how many stitches in each color you’ll make as you work around the bag.
- Round count starts back at 1 for the bag body so it matches the rows on the graph.
- Each stitch is a back loop only single crochet stitch. At the end of the round, join to the first SC of the round with a slip stitch through both loops. Chain 1, and then work the first SC of the round in the same stitch (back loop only).
w = white, b = blue, p =purple
Round 1: w50
Change to blue yarn in the last stitch of the round. Drop white yarn, leaving it connected.
Round 2: b50
Change back to white yarn in the last stitch by picking up white yarn and dropping the blue.
Round 3: w50
Change back to blue yarn in the last stitch by picking up blue yarn and dropping the white.
Round 4: b50
Change back to white yarn in the last stitch by picking up the white yarn and dropping the blue. Work over the blue yarn for a few stitches until it’s secure and then cut it.
Round 5: w50
Attach the purple yarn at the start of round 6 by working your white SC stitches over it. For rounds 6-15, alternate between white and green yarn, carrying the unused color along with you under your stitches.
Round 6: *w8, p9, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 7: *w7, p11, w7, repeat from * one more time
Round 8: *w7, p11, w7, repeat from * one more time
Round 9: *w7, p11, w7, repeat from * one more time
Round 10: *w7, p11, w7, repeat from * one more time
Round 11: *w8, p9, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 12: *w9, p7, w9, repeat from * one more time
Round 13: *w10, p5, w10, repeat from * one more time
Round 14: *w9, p7, w9, repeat from * one more time
Round 15: *w8, p9, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 16: *w8, p9, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 17: *w8, p9, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 18: *w9, p7, w9, repeat from * one more time
Round 19: *w8, p3, w3, p3, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 20: *w8, p3, w3, p3, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 21: *w8, p3, w3, p3, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 22:* w8, p3, w3, p3, w8, repeat from * one more time
Round 23: *w8, p2, w5, p2, w8, repeat from * one more time
Carry the purple yarn with you under the white stitches in round 24. Then cut the purple yarn and leave the white connected.
Round 24: *w50
Change to blue yarn in the last stitch of the round. Drop the white yarn, leaving it connected.
Round 25: *b50
Change back to white yarn in the last stitch by picking up the white yarn and dropping the blue.
Round 26: *w50
Change to blue yarn in the last stitch of the round. Drop the white yarn, leaving it connected.
Round 27: *b50
Change back to white yarn in the last stitch by picking up the white yarn. Work over the blue yarn for part of round 28 to secure it before cutting it.
Round 28: *w50
Do not fasten off. This is the end of the tapestry crochet section for the body of the bag. Next, continue to the top of the bag. At this point, only your white yarn should be attached to your bag. Chain 1 and continue to top of bag instructions.
Top of Bag
The stitches of the next round will create the holes the drawstring will pass through. Remember, all SC stitches are worked in the back loop only.
Round 29: SC first 3 sts, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, *SC next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, repeat from * around, join, ch 1 (50 sts including SC and chain sts)
Round 30: SC in each stitch around, work 2 SC stitches into each ch 2 space, join, ch 1 (50)
Rounds 31 – 34: SC in each stitch around, join, ch 1 (50)
Do not ch 1 after round 34. Fasten off and weave in end.
Continue to Drawstring Instructions below.
In the color of your choice (white shown in this pattern), make a chain long enough to go around the bag with a little extra for short ends that will tie into a knot when the bag is sinched. For the bag pictured, a starting chain of 55 was used. Starting in the 2nd chain from your hook, work slip stitches into the 3rd loop (back bump) of each stitch across. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Weave the drawstring in and out of the holes around the bag starting in one of the center holes. The ends may seem short to tie, but when you draw the strings in, they’ll be long enough.
To close the top of the bag, pull the ends of the drawstring to cinch up the top of the bag. Then tie a knot at the top to secure it so the items inside don’t fall out.
Pom Pom Tail (optional)
Finally, finish your easter bunny bag with a cute, fluffy tail! Make a pompom using white yarn (or a color of your choice). There are a few techniques you can use for making your pompom including using a pompom maker or wrapping the yarn around your fingers. Use the yarn tail to sew the pompom to the bunny on your bag. As an alternative, you can also use a small craft pompom and hot glue it to your bag.
If you have a bunny on both sides of your bag, you can choose if you’d like to put a pompom on each side, or just one side for the back of the bunny.
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