This little crochet cactus amigurumi is the perfect addition to your home décor, or can also make a great gift for a plant-loving friend!
To work up this crochet cactus, you’ll start by working up the pot from the bottom to the top in tapestry crochet following a graph for the color changes. Then, you’ll finish the pot by working the rounds of brown for the soil. The main cactus piece will be crocheted next and sewn on to the pot. Lastly, you’ll finish the crochet cactus by making and sewing on the smaller cactus pieces and the cute little flower on top!
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Materials:
- Worsted Weight (#4) Yarn – Either cotton or acrylic yarn will work for your crochet cactus. The cactus pictured was made with WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted yarn in the colors: Freesia, White, Rouge, Cornflower, Espresso and Peapod. You’ll need approx. 130 yds of yarn in total (approx. 35 yards of Peapod/Green and approx. 5 yards of each of the other colors).
- 3.5 mm crochet hook
- Black embroidery thread (for the mouth)
- Safety eyes – 10mm size
- Stuffing (any fiber-based stuffing like Poly-fil or Fiber Fill)
- Yarn needle to weave in ends (bent yarn needles are the best for amigurumi projects)
Stitches Used:
- Ch – chain
- Sl St – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- BLO SC – single crochet in the back loops only
- FLO SC – single crochet in the front loops only
- INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook. Here’s a video tutorial for the INV DEC.
Finished Size:
- When finished, this crochet cactus measures approximately 7” tall from the bottom of the pot to the top of the tallest arm.
Gauge:
- Gauge is not critical for your crochet cactus to turn out, however, for reference, 2 inches square is approximately 9 rows of 11 SC stitches.
Important Notes:
- Joined Rounds– The tapestry crochet section (cactus pot) is worked in joined rounds of back loop only SC stitches. At the end of each round, the last stitch of the round will be joined to the first stitch with a slip stitch. Then chain 1 and start the next round in the first stitch, which is the same stitch as the join. To keep the seam more hidden and from traveling much, be sure to pull the joining slip stitch and the chain 1 nice and tight. Chain 1 stitches do not count towards the stitch count of each round.
- Continuous Rounds – After the pot is finished, the soil and the cactus pieces are all worked up in continuous rounds. This means that at the end of each round, you will proceed right to the stitches of the next round without joining. It is handy to have a stitch marker or piece of yarn to help you keep track of the start/end of each round.
- Color Changes – The pot is worked in tapestry crochet. This means you will be changing colors often and carrying the color(s) you are not using along with you under/behind your stitches. To change colors, complete the last single crochet in the first color up until the last yarn over. Yarn over with the new color and pull through the last step of the single crochet stitch. So, your SC will go like this: insert hook into last stitch in the first color, pull up a loop, yarn over with the new color, pull through all loops on hook. Now you will be working in the new color until you change colors again.
- Tapestry Crochet Tips – You will be carrying the inactive yarn color behind the active yarn you are using. Try to keep your tension a little on the tighter side to help keep the stitches tightly together and keep the yarn you are carrying from showing between the stitches.
Have fun working up your adorable crochet cactus! I can’t wait to see the colors you choose!
Cactus Pot
The base of the pot will be worked up first, then you’ll follow a graph for working up the rest of the pot in tapestry crochet. For the pot pictured, four different colors were used to create the chevron stripes pattern. When working up your pot, you can eliminate one or more of the colors, if you’d like to have some sections the same color.
Round 1: In purple, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring, join to first SC, ch 1 (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around, join, ch 1 (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first, SC in next, repeat around, join, ch 1 (18)
Round 4: 2 SC in first, SC in next 2, repeat around, join, ch 1 (24)
Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around, join, ch 1 (30)
Round 6: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around, join, ch 1 (36)
Round 7: 2 SC in first, SC in next 5, repeat around, join, ch 1 (42)
Round 8: 2 SC in first, SC in next 6, repeat around, join, ch 1 (48)
Do not fasten off. The base of the pot is complete. Continue to the instructions below to work up the height/body of the pot, which is done using the tapestry crochet technique. For this section, you may choose to follow the written instructions, or you may follow the graph.
Graph Notes:
- Each box counts as one single crochet stitch (in the back loops only). Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round to the first SC (join through both loops).
- Graph is worked from bottom to top, either right to left or left to right.
- The graph is 24 stitches, however the pot is 48 stitches around so you will need to work the graph twice to get the full way around the pot.
- Carry inactive yarn colors under your active yarn while you’re working.
Written Instructions
- The written instructions below indicate how many stitches in each color you’ll make as you work around the pot. The colors are abbreviated as listed below. The number of SC stitches in each color is written in brackets/parenthesis.
- Round count starts back at 1 so it matches the rows on the graph.
- Each stitch is a back loop only single crochet stitch. At the end of each round, join to the first SC of the round with a slip stitch through both loops. Chain 1, and then work the first SC of the round in the same stitch (back loop only).
- Remember to carry your inactive yarn colors under your stitches as you work the active color.
PR = purple W = white PK =pink B = blue
Round 1: PR(48)
Round 2: *PR(3), W(2), PK(2), W(2), PR(6), W(2), PK(2), W(2), PR(3). Repeat from * once more.
Round 3: *PR(2), W(2), PK(4), W(2), PR(4), W(2), PK(4), W(2), PR(2). Repeat from * once more.
Round 4: *PR(1), W(2), PK(6), W(2), PR(2), W(2), PK(6), W(2), PR(1). Repeat from * once more.
*You are now finished with the purple yarn. Work over it as you start the next round and then cut the tail when it is secured.
Round 5: *W(2), PK(3), W(2), PK(3), W(4), PK(3), W(2), PK(3), W(2). Repeat from * once more.
Round 6: *W(1), PK(3), W(4), PK(3), W(2), PK(3), W(4), PK(3), W(1). Repeat from * once more.
Round 7: *PK(3), W(2), B(2), W(2), PK(6), W(2), B(2), W(2), PK(3). Repeat from * once more.
Round 8: *PK(2), W(2), B(4), W(2), PK(4), W(2), B(4), W(2), PK(2). Repeat from * once more.
Round 9: *PK(1), W(2), B(6), W(2), PK(2), W(2), B(6), W(2), PK(1). Repeat from * once more.
*You are now finished with the white and pink yarn. Work over it as you start the next round and then cut the tails when they’re secured.
Round 10: B(48)
Do not fasten off. This is the end of the tapestry crochet section for the body of the pot. Continue in the blue yarn to work the top edge of the pot. Work the next round in the front loops only.
Round 11: Continue in blue yarn. FLO SC in each stitch around. Join to first SC. Fasten off, leave a tail, and cut your yarn. Weave in yarn tail now or work over it to secure it in the next section.
The body of the pot is now complete. To help keep the shape of the bottom so it can sit flat on a surface, cut a piece of cardboard or plastic the same size as the bottom of the pot and press it into the bottom of your pot. Part of a yogurt container lid or a piece of a cardboard box will work perfectly. In the next rounds, you’ll be working with the brown yarn to add the “soil” to the pot.
*From now on, the pattern is worked in continuous rounds (no longer joining after each round).
*The first round of the brown yarn will be worked in the back loops of round 10. This is right behind where you used the front loops to create the top edge of the pot. Start by joining your brown yarn in the back loop of the first stitch with a slip stitch. Chain 1 and pull the slip stitch nice and tight. Then continue with the round below working the first SC stitch in the same stitch as your join.
Round 12: BLO SC in each stitch around (48)
*Work all the remaining rounds in both loops.
Round 13: *INV DEC, SC in next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42)
Round 14: *INV DEC, SC in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36)
Round 15: *INV DEC, SC in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30)
Round 16: *INV DEC, SC in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24)
*Start adding stuffing to your pot. Continue adding stuffing throughout the next round.
Round 17: *INV DEC, SC in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18)
Round 18: *INV DEC, SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12)
*Make sure you’ve added enough stuffing to the pot before the opening gets too small.
Round 19: INV DEC in each stitch around (6)
Fasten off, weave in ends, cut yarn tails. Put aside the pot for assembly later. Next, you’ll work up the cactus pieces.
Large Cactus Piece
Round 1: In green, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: 2 SC in first, SC in next 2, repeat around (24)
Round 5: 2 SC in first, SC in next 3, repeat around (30)
Round 6: 2 SC in first, SC in next 4, repeat around (36)
Rounds 7-12: SC in each stitch around (36)
Round 13: *INV DEC, SC in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30)
Rounds 14-19: SC in each stitch around (30)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing to the pot later.
Insert safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 7 stitches apart. Make a couple stitches in pink yarn below the eyes to form cheeks. Use black embroidery thread or a strand of black yarn to sew a smile in the center of the face a couple rounds below the eyes.
Cactus Arm (Larger)
Round 1: In green, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-6: SC in each stitch around (18)
Round 7: *INV DEC, SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12)
Round 8: SC in each stitch around (12)
Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing onto cactus later. Flatten cactus arm and then sew closed by passing your yarn needle through both layers of each stitch across (whip stitch). Set aside for assembly.
Cactus Arm (Smaller) – make 2 of these!
Round 1: In green, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-6: SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 7: *INV DEC, SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (8)
Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing onto cactus later. Flatten cactus arm and then sew closed by passing your yarn needle through both layers of each stitch across (whip stitch). Repeat instructions above for second small cactus arm. Set both arms aside for assembly.
Flower
Round 1: In purple, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC into ring, change color to pink yarn, join with sl st to first SC, ch 2 (6)
Round 2: [2 DC, sl st] in first stitch. Repeat in each stitch around (six times total). Join with sl st to first st.
Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing onto cactus. Set aside for assembly.
Cactus Assembly Instructions
Step 1: Attach Cactus Piece to the Pot
Start by stuffing the large cactus piece. Make sure to stuff all the way from top to bottom. Then, line up the cactus piece in the center of the “soil” on top of the pot. Make sure to keep the seam on the pot at the back so it’s not as obvious.
Use your yarn needle and yarn tail to sew the cactus piece to the pot. Make sure to pass through each of the stitches around the edge of the cactus and then through a stitch on the pot/soil as you work your way around.
When the cactus piece is fully attached, weave in your yarn tail and cut any remaining green yarn.
Step 2: Sew on Larger Cactus Arm and Flower
Sew the larger arm to the side of the cactus, lining up the bottom of the arm approximately with the eyes. Sew in and out of each stitch along the bottom of the arm. Then sew the flower to the cactus arm. Be sure to only pass through one layer of stitches when sewing the flower on so that your stitches will not be noticeable on the back of the cactus arm. Weave in ends and cut yarn.
Step 3: Sew on Smaller Cactus Arms
Sew one of the smaller arms on the left side of the cactus. Line it up lower than the larger arm, approximately in line with the cheeks. Attach to the cactus by sewing in and out of each stitch on the bottom of the arm and then pass through a stitch on the side of the cactus. Sew the second arm to the top of the larger arm so it is pointing upwards. Weave in all ends and cut yarn.
That’s it! You’re all done with your sweet little crochet cactus amigurumi plant! I hope you had so much fun working this one up!
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