Make a cute Puppy Lovey for a special little one in your life, or also a great gift idea for a mom-to-be! Loveys are also great makes for craft sales or gifting too! They combine a blanket with a stuffed animal for ALL the cuddles!
This Puppy Lovey is the perfect cuddling companion for little ones! As soon as I finished making this one, my 3 year old daughter insisted that it was now hers and needed to sleep in her bed every night from now on. I can see more animal loveys in my future crocheting. I am feeling the need to make ALL the animals! 😉
This puppy lovey works up super cute in any color combination! You can also add eyelashes and a bow (or bowtie) for more customizations.
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Pin the Puppy Lovey pattern for later on Pinterest!
We have a few adorable lovey patterns on the blog! Check out our Kitty Lovey or Elephant Lovey crochet patterns. Your Puppy Lovey may need a pal!
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Materials:
- Worsted-weight #4 yarn – You can use any #4 worsted-weight yarn for this project. The Puppy Lovey pictured was made with WeCrochet/Knit Picks Heatherly yarn in the following colorways and approximate yardages: Gravity (100 yds), Lilac (50yds), Snowflake (10yds).
- Crochet Hook – 3.5mm crochet hook for the amigurumi pieces and 5.5mm crochet hook for the blanket. *Note that if you crochet on the looser side, you may want to go down to a 5mm hook for the blanket.
- Safety Eyes – two 10mm safety eyes (here is a tutorial for crocheting eyes, as an alternative.
- Safety Nose – one 14mm safety nose (nose can be stitched on, as an alternative)
- Stuffing – any fiber-based stuffing
- Embroidery thread (optional) – a small amount of black for the snout.
- Yarn needle – bent yarn needles are great for sewing amigurumi pieces together!
Stitches Used:
- Sl St – Slip Stitch
- MC – magic circle
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- TR – treble crochet
- Cluster V-Stitch -*Note that this is a modified Cluster V-Stitch – Make 2 double crochet stitches, chain 1, and make 2 more double crochet stitches – all in the same stitch.
- INC – single crochet increase – work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch.
- INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remining loops on hook. See the Invisible Decrease video tutorial here.
Important Notes:
- Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Use this loop to start your first chain 1 of the pattern.
- Continuous Rounds – The amigurumi parts of this pattern (puppy head, nose, ears, arms) are worked in continuous rounds. This means you will not be joining the last stitch to the first stitch at the end of each round. Do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to help you keep count, if needed. See this video tutorial for help with the magic circle and increasing rounds.
- Joined Rounds – The blanket part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds. At the end of each round, you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first stitch with a slip stitch. The first stitch of each round will be worked in the same stitch as the chain 2 starting the round. The chain 2 at the start of each round does not count as the first double crochet.
- Color Changes – change colors in the last stitch of the round. Work the last stitch in the first color right up until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through the last step of your stitch. Then continue working in the new color.
- Finished Size – When complete, this puppy lovey is about 12 inches tall from the top of head to the bottom of blanket. When the blanket is laid flat, it is about 16 inches wide.
Make Your Puppy Lovey – The Pattern
Lovey Blanket
To make the blanket part of the lovey as pictured, alternating sections of grey and purple were used, with a round of white in between. As an alternative, you can also just use one color for the stripes instead of two. Or the striping effect can be changed by switching up the number of rounds worked in each color.
In the instructions below, Color A is purple, Color B is white, Color C is grey.
Remember to use your 5.5mm crochet hook for the lovey blanket.
Round 1: In color A, magic circle, ch 2, work 12 DC into the ring. Join with a sl st to first stitch. (12 DC)
Round 2: Ch 2, cluster v-stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip next stitch, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. (6 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 3: Sl st to next st, ch 2, DC in first stitch, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next stitch, *skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Change to color B. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 12 DC stitches)
The cluster v-stitches form the corners of the star shaped blanket. If you are unsure of how to place your double crochet stitches before and after the cluster v-stitches, here is a photo to help:
Round 4: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 2 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 2 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color C. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 24 DC stitches)
Round 5: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 3 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 3 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 3 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 36 DC stitches)
Round 6: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 4 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 4 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 4 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 4 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color B. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 48 DC stitches)
Round 7: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 5 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 5 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 5 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 5 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color A. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 60 DC stitches)
Round 8: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 6 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 6 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 6 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 6 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 72 DC stitches)
Round 9: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 7 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 7 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 7 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 7 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color B. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 84 DC stitches)
Round 10: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 8 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 8 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 8 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 8 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color C. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 96 DC stitches)
Round 11: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 9 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 9 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 9 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 9 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 108 DC stitches)
Round 12: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 10 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 10 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 10 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color B. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 120 DC stitches)
Round 13: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 11 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 11 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 11 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 11 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color A. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 132 DC stitches)
Round 14: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 12 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 12 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 12 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 12 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 144 DC stitches)
Round 15: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 13 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 13 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 13 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 13 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 156 DC stitches)
Fasten off. Weave in all ends. Put the lovey blanket aside until assembly later.
Puppy Head
The head is worked from the bottom up. Remember to use your 3.5mm crochet hook for this part.
Add stuffing as you go. Make sure you’ve added enough stuffing to the head before the opening gets too small when you are working the decrease rounds.
Round 1: In grey yarn, magic circle, ch 1, make 6 SC sts into ring (6)
Round 2: INC in each st around (12)
Round 3: *INC, SC in next st, repeat from * around (18)
Round 4: *INC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24)
Round 5: *INC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30)
Round 6: *INC, SC in next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36)
Round 7: *INC, SC in next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42)
Round 8: *INC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from * around (48)
Rounds 9-18: SC in each st around (48)
*Insert safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, approximately 8 stitches apart. If you would like to your puppy to have eyelashes, it is easier to add them before the eyes are secured. First, place your safety eyes where you would like them to be, but do not secure the backs yet. Next, remove the eyes. This creates a little hole to help you see where the eyelashes should be placed. Use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes. Then insert the safety eyes again and secure the backs tightly. Below, I have included a photo from another one of my patterns to help with this step.
Round 19: *INV DEC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from * around (42)
Round 20: *INV DEC, SC in next 5 sts, repeat from * around (36)
Round 21: *INV DEC, SC in next 4 sts, repeat from * around (30)
Round 22: *INV DEC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat form * around (24)
Round 23: *INV DEC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18)
Round 24: INV DEC, SC in next st, repeat from * around (12)
*Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head by this point.
Round 25: INV DEC around (6)
Fasten off and sew bottom of head closed. Weave in ends and then cut your yarn.
Set the head aside until assembly later.
Snout, Nose, and Mouth
Round 1: In grey yarn, magic circle, ch 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
*If you are going to use a safety nose, do not pull the center ring completely tight yet. Leave the yarn tail out so you can pull the circle tight later. If you’re embroidering on the nose, you can go ahead and pull it tight and work over your yarn tail.
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-5: SC in each stitch around (18)
Fasten off and cut yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the snout onto the head.
Insert safety nose into the middle of the ring, pull the yarn tail tight to secure the ring around the nose, and then fasten the back of the safety nose. Weave in the yarn tail to secure it. Next use your yarn needle and black embroidery thread to make a stitch down 4 rounds from the center of the nose. Set snout/nose aside for assembly later.
Ears (make 2)
Round 1: In purple, magic circle, ch 1, 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Rounds 3-4: SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 5: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 6-7: SC in each stitch around (18)
*Change color to grey
Rounds 8-15: SC in each stitch around (18)
Round 16: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)
At the end of round 16, pinch the ear flat and SC across the top to close. Leave a long tail for sewing ears to the head. Set aside for assembly later.
Arms (make 2)
Gently stuff the arms, mostly towards the bottom portion of the arm.
Round 1: In purple yarn, magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (9)
Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (12)
Round 4: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around (15)
Rounds 5-6: SC in each stitch around (15)
Round 7: INV DEC, SC in next 3 stitches, repeat around (12)
*Change color to grey.
Rounds 8-19: SC in each stitch around (12)
At the end of round 19, pinch the top of the arm flat and SC across the top to close. Leave a long yarn tail to sew onto the blanket.
Now that you have made all the pieces, continue to the assembly instructions below.
Assembling the Lovey
Step 1: Sew the Ears on the Head
Line the ears up on top of the puppy’s head, about 4-5 rounds down from the top center. The ears will line up directly across from each other centered to the top of the head where we closed it off. Once you decide on their placement, you can pin them in place to hold them while you sew, or just remember their placement and sew on one at a time. Flatten the ear so the stitches are laying on top of each other. Place the ear on the head. Starting at one end of the ear, sew through both layers of stitches, passing through a stitch on the puppy’s head. Repeat for each stitch across the ear, passing through a stitch on the head with each stitch. Once the ear is secured in place, weave in ends inside the head and cut your yarn. Repeat for second ear.
Step 2: Sew the Snout onto the Face
Add some stuffing to the snout and then place on the puppy’s face. Center the snout on the face in the middle of the eyes. The top of the snout lines up almost at the top of the eyes vertically. You can pin the snout in place before you start sewing, if you’d like. Use your yarn needle to sew on the snout, making sure to pass through each of the stitches around the edge and then through a stitch on the head as you work your way around the snout. Once you are ¾ of the way around, make sure you’ve added enough stuffing to the snout before finishing up your stitches. Weave in ends and cut yarn tails.
Step 3: Sew the Arms onto the Blanket
Start by laying the lovey blanket flat with the right side of the stitches facing you (the side facing you while you were crocheting). Choose the side you would like to use for the front and center of the lovey (this is where the face will be centered when it is sewn on in the next step). Next, sew the arms to the blanket directly across from each other, one on each side of the center round of the blanket. Leave a little bit of space in the middle to sew on the head in the middle. Make sure to sew in and out of each stitch across the end of the arm, passing in and out of a stitch on the blanket with each stitch you make. If you do not want your stitches to show up on the bottom side of the blanket, be sure to only pass through the top layer of stitches and not all the way through the blanket to the other side.
Step 4: Sew the Head onto the Blanket
To attach the head, place the head in the middle of the blanket and line it up so the puppy’s face is centered in the middle of the arms (eyes pointing straight forward). Use your yarn needle to sew around the stitches of the bottom of the head, in the 2nd or 3rd round from the bottom, and passing in and out of the stitches in the middle round of the blanket. Sewing in the 2nd and 3rd round of the head and pulling your stitches tight will help keep the head more securely in place with less wobble. To keep your stitches more hidden on the reverse side of the blanket, either use the same color as the top part of the blanket, or only sew through the top layer of the stitches and do not pass all the way through the blanket while sewing.
You’re all done your Puppy Lovey! I hope you loved making this pattern! Please check out our other fun lovey patterns too! We have a Kitty Lovey and an Elephant Lovey on the blog!
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*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole. Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!
Debbie Domke
Saturday 14th of September 2019
I would love to make this for my 3 granddaughters.