Kitty Lovey - Free Crochet Pattern Loops & Love Crochet

This Kitty Lovey was so fun to make and I just am in love with how she turned out! I think this lovey would make a great baby shower gift for a mom-to-be or a new baby gift. When I first designed this pattern a few years ago, I gifted the kitty lovey to my cousin who had just had a baby girl.

I can also picture how adorable this kitty lovey would be in a less “girly” version by changing the blanket colors, and then not adding the eyelashes or bow. Or by making the bow a bowtie instead.

Since this pattern release, I have also designed and posted patterns for a Puppy Lovey and an Elephant Lovey, with plans to continue to add more animals here and there.

I used WeCrochet/Knit Picks Heatherly Worsted yarn for this Kitty Lovey. This yarn is so soft and cozy, making it perfect for baby and kid projects. There are quite a few color options to choose from, but I went with my favorite colors: pink, purple, and turquoise. My awesome group of pattern testers used many different colors for their loveys and they all looked fantastic! For some reason, I am just really drawn to pink, purple, and turquoise to the point that I use them together in so many of my crochet projects. If you’ve scrolled through my Instagram photos, you may have noticed these colors and just bright colors in general! I can’t help it, bright colors just make me so happy!

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Materials:

Worsted-weight #4 yarn – You can use any #4 worsted-weight yarn for this project. The Kitty Lovey pictured was made with WeCrochet/Knit Picks Heatherly yarn in the following colorways and approximate yardages: Snowflake (100yds), Sweetheart (60yds), Cabana (10 yds), and Lilac (10yds).
Crochet Hook – 3.5mm crochet hook for the amigurumi pieces and 5.5mm crochet hook for the blanket. *Note that if you crochet on the looser side, you may want to go down to a 5mm hook for the blanket.
Safety Eyes – two 10mm safety eyes
- As an alternative to safety eyes, here is a great tutorial for making crochet eyes.
Stuffing – any fiber-based stuffing
Embroidery thread (optional) – a small amount of black for the eyelashes.
Yarn needle – bent yarn needles are great for sewing amigurumi pieces together!

Stitches Used:

Sl St – Slip Stitch
MC – magic circle
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
TR – treble crochet
Cluster V-Stitch -*Note that this is a modified Cluster V-Stitch – Make 2 double crochet stitches, chain 1, and make 2 more double crochet stitches – all in the same stitch.
INC – single crochet increase – work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch.
INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remining loops on hook. See the Invisible Decrease video tutorial here.

Important Notes:

Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Use this loop to start your first chain 1 of the pattern.
Continuous Rounds – The amigurumi parts of this pattern (kitty head, ears, arms) are worked in continuous rounds. This means you will not be joining the last stitch to the first stitch at the end of each round. Do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to help you keep count, if needed. See this video tutorial for help with the magic circle and increasing rounds.
Joined Rounds – The blanket part of this pattern is worked in joined rounds. At the end of each round, you will be joining the last stitch of the round to the first stitch with a slip stitch. The first stitch of each round will be worked in the same stitch as the chain 2 starting the round. The chain 2 at the start of each round does not count as the first double crochet.
Color Changes – change colors at the end of the round before joining. Complete the last double crochet of the round up until the last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and pull through the last step of the double crochet stitch.
Finished Size – When complete, this kitty lovey is about 12 inches tall from the top of head to the bottom of blanket. When the blanket is laid flat, it is about 16 inches wide.

The Pattern

Lovey Blanket

To make the blanket part of the lovey as pictured, three accent colors were used for the stripes (pink, purple, and blue) with a round of white worked in between. You can also use one or two accent colors instead of all three. Or the striping effect can be changed by switching up the number of rounds worked in each color.

In the instructions below, Color A is pink, Color B is purple, Color C is blue, and Color D is white.

Remember to use your 5.5mm crochet hook for the lovey blanket.

Round 1: In color A, magic circle, ch 2, work 12 DC into the ring. Join with a sl st to first stitch. (12 DC)

Round 2: Ch 2, cluster v-stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip next stitch, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. (6 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 3: Sl st to next st, ch 2, DC in first stitch, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next stitch, *skip a stitch, DC in next stitch, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next stitch. Repeat from * around. Change to color D. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 12 DC stitches)

The cluster v-stitches form the corners of the star shaped blanket. If you are unsure of how to place your double crochet stitches before and after the cluster v-stitches, here is a photo to help:

Round 4: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 2 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 2 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color B. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 24 DC stitches)

Round 5: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 3 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 3 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 3 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 36 DC stitches)

Round 6: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 4 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 4 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 4 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 4 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color D. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 48 DC stitches)

Round 7: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 5 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 5 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 5 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 5 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color C. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 60 DC stitches)

Round 8: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 6 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 6 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 6 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 6 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 72 DC stitches)

Round 9: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 7 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 7 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 7 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 7 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color D. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 84 DC stitches)

Round 10: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 8 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 8 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 8 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 8 stitches. Repeat from * around. Change to color A. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 96 DC stitches)

Round 11: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 9 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 9 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 9 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 9 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 108 DC stitches)

Round 12: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 10 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 10 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 10 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 10 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 120 DC stitches)

Round 13: Sl st to next stitch, ch 2, DC in first 11 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 11 stitches, *skip a stitch, DC in next 11 stitches, cluster v-stitch (in v-stitch space from previous round), DC in next 11 stitches. Repeat from * around. Join to first stitch. (6 cluster v-stitches, 132 DC stitches)

Fasten off. Weave in all ends. Put the lovey blanket aside until assembly later.

Kitty Head

The head is worked from the bottom up. Remember to use your 3.5mm crochet hook for this part.

Add stuffing as you go. Make sure you’ve added enough stuffing to the head before the opening gets too small when you are working the decrease rounds.

Round 1: In white yarn, magic circle, ch 1, make 6 SC sts into ring (6)

Round 2: INC in each st around (12)

Round 3: *INC, SC in next st, repeat from * around (18)

Round 4: *INC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from * around (24)

Round 5: *INC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30)

Round 6: *INC, SC in next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36)

Round 7: *INC, SC in next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42)

Round 8: *INC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from * around (48)

Rounds 9-18: SC in each st around (48)

*Insert safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, approximately 8 stitches apart. If you would like to your kitty to have eyelashes, it is easier to add them before the eyes are secured. First, place your safety eyes where you would like them to be, but do not secure the backs yet. Next, remove the eyes. This creates a little hole to help you see where the eyelashes should be placed. Use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes. Then insert the safety eyes again and secure the backs tightly. Below, I have included a photo from another one of my patterns to help with this step. You can also stitch on the nose and mouth at this point, or you can do it at the end if you prefer. See the instructions for the nose and mouth below.

Round 19: *INV DEC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from * around (42)

Round 20: *INV DEC, SC in next 5 sts, repeat from * around (36)

Round 21: *INV DEC, SC in next 4 sts, repeat from * around (30)

Round 22: *INV DEC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat form * around (24)

Round 23: *INV DEC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18)

Round 24: INV DEC, SC in next st, repeat from * around (12)

*Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head by this point.

Round 25: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off and sew bottom of head closed.

Weave in ends and then cut your yarn.

Continue to instructions below for sewing on the nose and mouth. Then set the head aside until assembly later.

Stitching on the Nose and Mouth

Use some pink yarn to stitch on the nose and mouth. The nose is placed between the first and second rounds below the eyes. Use your yarn needle to pass the pink yarn around the 4-5 stitches in the center between the eyes about 3-4 times (or as many times as you like depending on how thick of a nose you would like). When you are happy with the nose, continue using your yarn and needle to make a larger stitch straight down 2-3 rows from the middle of the nose. Then make a diagonal stitch on each side to create the mouth. Use the head photo to help with where to place your nose and mouth stitches.

Ears (make 2)

Round 1: In white yarn, magic circle, ch 1, 4 SC stitches into ring (4)

Round 2: *INC, SC in next st, repeat from * (6)

Round 3: *INC, SC in next st, repeat from * around (9)

Round 4: *INC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from * around (12)

Round 5: SC in each stitch around (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Set ears aside for assembly later.

Arms (make 2)

Stuff the arms as you go. Stuff the bottom half of the arms more firmly, and then lightly stuff towards the top leaving the last one or two rounds at the top unstuffed.

Round 1: In white yarn, magic circle, ch 1, make 6 SC sts into ring (6)

Round 2: INC in each st around (12)

Round 3: *INC, SC in next st, repeat from * around (18)

Rounds 4-6: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 7: *INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat from * around (12)

*Add some stuffing to the bottom of the paw area.

Round 8: SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 9: *INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around (9)

Rounds 10-19: SC in each stitch around (9)

Finish stuffing the arm. Then, press the top of the arm flat so the stitches are laying on top of each other. Close the top of the arm by making 4 SC stitches across the top. Fasten off and cut your yarn leaving a long enough tail to sew on to the blanket (assembly instructions at end of pattern).

Bow (Optional to add to kitty’s head)

Make a magic circle, chain 2. Work 3 double crochet stitches into the ring, chain 2 and make a slip stitch to the center of the ring. Chain 2 again, make 3 double crochet stitches into the ring, chain 2, and slip stitch to center ring. Wrap the yarn ends around the middle of the bow a few times. I wrapped one of the yarn tails around one way and then went the opposite way with the other yarn tail. Use your yarn tails to make a knot at the back of the bow. Weave one of the yarn tails in and cut yarn. The other tail will be used to sew the bow onto the kitty’s head later.

You can find a video tutorial HERE for the crochet bow. Note that this video tutorial shows a slightly larger bow with treble crochet stitches being used instead of double crochet. Otherwise, the bow is worked up in the exact same way.

Assembling the Kitty Lovey

Step 1: Sew the Ears on the Head

Line the ears up on top of the kitty’s head where you would like them to be. Once you decide on their placement, you can pin them in place to hold them while you sew, or just remember their placement and sew on one at a time. For the kitty lovey pictured, the ears are lined up in the 3^rd to 8^th round from the top of the head. They are also centered with the magic circle (not sewn towards the front or back of the head). Flatten the ear so the stitches are laying on top of each other. Place the ear on the head. Starting at one end of the ear, sew through both layers of stitches at the bottom of the ear and pass through a stitch on the kitty’s head. Repeat for each stitch across the ear, passing through a stitch on the head with each stitch. Once the ear is secured in place, weave in ends inside the head and cut your yarn. Repeat for second ear.

Step 2: Sew the Arms onto the Blanket

Start by laying the lovey blanket flat with the right side of the stitches facing you (the side facing you while you were crocheting). Choose the side you would like to use for the front and center of the lovey (this is where the face will be centered when it is sewn on in the next step). Next, sew the arms to the blanket directly across from each other, one on each side of the center round of the blanket. Leave a little bit of space in the middle to sew on the head in the middle. Make sure to sew in and out of each stitch across the end of the arm, passing in and out of a stitch on the blanket with each stitch you make. If you do not want your stitches to show up on the bottom side of the blanket, be sure to only pass through the top layer of stitches and not all the way through the blanket to the other side.

Step 3: Sew the Head onto the Blanket

To attach the head, it will be easiest to hide your stitches if you use the same color as the first few rounds of the blanket. Place the head in the middle of the blanket and line it up so the kitty’s face is centered in the middle of the arms (eyes pointing straight forward). Use your yarn needle to sew around the stitches of the bottom of the head, in the 2^nd or 3^rd round from the bottom, and passing in and out of the stitches in the middle round of the blanket. Sewing in the 2^nd and 3^rd round of the head and pulling your stitches tight will help keep the head more securely in place with less wobble.

If you are adding a bow on top of the kitty’s head, you can do that right here at the end. Place the bow in front of one of the ears and use the yarn tail to sew it on, passing through a few stitches on the head. Weave in ends and cut yarn.

You’re all finished! I hope that you love the adorable little kitty lovey you made!

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your finished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

If you are a cat lover like me, check out my other cat related crochet projects!