Jelly Bean Cowl - Free Crochet Pattern Loops & Love Crochet

Crochet yourself a beautiful Jelly Bean Cowl this season! It also complements the Jelly Beanie perfectly if you want a matching set!

The Jelly Bean Cowl has such pretty texture created with a combination of different crochet stitches. The puff stitches form the fun “jelly beans” and the post stitches create the ribbing and also add to the texture between the puff stitch rounds. Just like the Jelly Beanie, this cowl looks great in multiple colors or just in single color too!

If you have worked up the Jelly Beanie pattern, you’ll love making the Jelly Bean Cowl! If you haven’t made the beanie, but are interested in the pattern, check out our blog or our shops!

Jelly Beanie Crochet Pattern HERE

Enjoy making this fun cowl! Remember to tag me @loopsandlovecrochet when sharing your finished creations so I can see and share them!

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The Jelly Bean Cowl crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Materials

Worsted Weight yarn – Any #4 worsted-weight yarn will work for your Jelly Bean Cowl. You’ll need approx. 100-250 yards, either in one solid color or a mixture of colors. For the cowls pictured in this pattern, hand dyed worsted-weight yarn from @SubcultureYarn was used. The colorways pictured here are Unicorn Farts with Frosted Sugar Bombs for the child size and Shady Business with Black Pearl for the adult size.
4.5 mm or 5mm hook (depending on size of cowl and tension) – For the cowls pictured, a 4.5 hook was used for the child size, while a 5mm hook was used for the other sizes. Please note that I crochet a little bit on the tighter side. If you crochet loosely, you may decide to go down a hook size so your cowl turns out the correct size. Please check the gauge measurements listed below.
Yarn needle & Scissors – for weaving in ends and cutting yarn when finished.

Stitches Used

Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
FDC – foundation double crochet
FPSC – front post single crochet
FPDC – front post double crochet
BPDC – back post double crochet
Puff Stitch – Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, repeat this 3 more times into the same stitch (9 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Finish with a chain 1.

Gauge

7 DC stitches = approx. 2” in length
3 rows of DC stitches = approx. 1.75” in height.

Important Notes

Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
This pattern is worked in joined rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the top of the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain 1 (or 2).
For this pattern, you’ll be alternating between a main color and an accent color for the puff stitches. Both yarn colors can stay attached to the inside of your project. When you change colors, just drop the first color and pick up the other color where you left off. This will leave you with less ends to weave in at the end. Plus, the yarn is carried up inside of the cowl and will not be visible from the outside.
This cowl fits more like a neck warmer and does not drape far from the neck. If you prefer a looser cowl or taller/shorter cowl, this pattern is very easy to alter to get your preferred cowl fit. An even numbered starting foundation/first round stitch count is required for the puff stitches to work out. Adding or removing stitches from the starting foundation can change the circumference of your cowl, as needed. To change the height of the cowl, add or remove rounds of puff stitches or add or remove rounds of the FPDC/BPDC stitches. It’s all very adaptable, as long as you have an even stitch count.
Photo Tutorial – There are a bunch of photos at the end of the pattern that will help with some of the stitches in this pattern.

Video Tutorial – Check out the video on my YouTube Channel for a step-by-step visual tutorial on how to work up all the stitches in the Jelly Bean Cowl. You can find the video HERE!

Pattern Sizes

Child (ages 5-9): Finished size – approx. 19-20” circumference. 4.5” width.

Teen (ages 10-15): Finished size – approx. 21-22” circumference, 7” width.

Adult (ages 16+): Finished size – approx. 24-25” circumference, 8” width.

*Ages are estimations based on size charts. Use the measurements for a more accurate fit.

*See notes above for tips on altering the cowl measurements.

Child Sized Cowl

(Approximate ages: 5-9)

Use a 4.5mm hook for the child sized Jelly Bean Cowl to keep the stitches a little tighter together to provide more warmth around the neck.

*Please see the photos at the end of the pattern, or the video tutorial on YouTube for visuals on how to work up any of the stitches or steps in this pattern.

Round 1: In main color, FDC 64 stitches. Join with a sl st to top of first FDC, ch 2. (64)

This should be approximately 17-18” in length. It should gain a couple inches as you work up the next rounds for about a 19-20” circumference when complete.

Starting chain method (alternative to starting foundation) – If you prefer to use a starting chain instead of a foundation, follow these round 1 instructions instead: Chain 66, DC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each across, join to top of first DC with a sl st, ch 2. (64)

Make sure you keep the right side (front) of the work facing out and towards you when you join, and make sure your foundation is not twisted.

There will be a gap at the bottom where the band is not connected. You can use your yarn needle to sew it together now or leave it until the end.

Round 2: FPDC around first stitch (around first DC from previous round, not the chain), BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, ch 1. (64)

Round 3: SC in each stitch around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (64)

Round 4: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (32 puff stitches)

Round 5: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (32 puff stitches)

Round 6: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches, join, ch 1. (64)

Round 7: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Ch 1. (64)

Round 8: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change to accent color. Join, ch 2. (64)

Round 9: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (32 puff stitches)

Round 10: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (32 puff stitches)

Round 11: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches, join, ch 2. (64)

Round 12: DC in each stitch around, join, ch 2. (64)

Round 13: FPDC around first stitch (around first DC from previous round, not the chain), BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch. (64)

Fasten off, cut yarn, and weave in ends. You’re all done!

If you haven’t sewn together the gap at the bottom of the cowl where you joined the foundation/chain together, be sure to do that now as the last step.

Teen Sized Cowl

(Approximate ages: 10-15)

Use a 5mm hook for the teen sized Jelly Bean Cowl.

*Please see the photos at the end of the pattern, or the video tutorial on YouTube for visuals on how to work up any of the stitches or steps in this pattern.

Round 1: In main color, FDC 72 stitches. Join with a sl st to top of first FDC, ch 2. (72)

This should be approximately 19-20” in length. It should gain a couple inches as you work up the next rounds for about a 21-22” circumference when complete.

Starting chain method (alternative to starting foundation) – If you prefer to use a starting chain instead of a foundation, follow these round 1 instructions instead: Chain 74, DC in 2^nd chain from hook and in each across, join to top of first DC with a sl st, ch 2. (72)

Make sure you keep the right side (front) of the work facing out and towards you when you join, and make sure your foundation is not twisted.

There will be a gap at the bottom where the band is not connected (see photo tutorial). You can use your yarn needle to sew it together now or leave it until the end.

Round 3: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around (be sure to match up your stitches from the previous round so you are working a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC from the previous round). Join to top of first FPDC stitch, ch 1. (72)

Round 4: SC in each stitch around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (72)

Round 5: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (36 puff stitches)

Round 6: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (36 puff stitches)

Round 7: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches, join, ch 1. (72)

Round 8: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Ch 1. (72)

Round 9: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change to accent color. Join, ch 2. (72)

Round 10: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (36 puff stitches)

Round 11: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (36 puff stitches)

Round 12: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches, join, ch 1. (72)

Round 13: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Ch 1. (72)

Round 14: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change to accent color. Join, ch 2. (72)

Round 15: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (36 puff stitches)

Round 16: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (36 puff stitches)

Round 17: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches, join, ch 2. (72)

Round 18: DC in each stitch around, join, ch 2. (72)

Round 19: FPDC around first stitch (around first DC from previous round, not the chain), BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, ch 2. (72)

Round 20: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around (be sure to match up your stitches from the previous round so you are working a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC from the previous round). Join to top of first FPDC stitch. (72)

Fasten off, cut yarn, and weave in ends. You’re all done!

If you haven’t sewn together the gap at the bottom of the cowl where you joined the foundation/chain together, be sure to do that now as the last step.

Adult Sized Cowl

(Approximate ages: 16+)

Use 5mm hook for the adult sized Jelly Bean Cowl.

*Please see the photos at the end of the pattern, or the video tutorial on YouTube for visuals on how to work up any of the stitches or steps in this pattern.

Round 1: In main color, FDC 80 stitches. Join with a sl st to top of first FDC, ch 2. (80)

This should be approximately 22-23” in length. It should gain a couple inches as you work up the next rounds for about a 24-25” circumference when complete.

Starting chain method (alternative to starting foundation) – If you prefer to use a starting chain instead of a foundation, follow these round 1 instructions instead: Chain 82, DC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each across, join to top of first DC with a sl st, ch 2. (80)

Make sure you keep the right side (front) of the work facing out and towards you when you join, and make sure your foundation is not twisted.

There will be a gap at the bottom where the band is not connected (see photo tutorial). You can use your yarn needle to sew it together now or leave it until the end.

Round 4: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around (be sure to match up your stitches from the previous round so you are working a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC from the previous round). Join to top of first FPDC stitch, ch 1. (80)

Round 5: SC in each stitch around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (80)

Round 6: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (40 puff stitches)

Round 7: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (40 puff stitches)

Round 8: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches), join, ch 1. (80)

Round 9: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Ch 1. (80)

Round 10: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change to accent color. Join, ch 2. (80)

Round 11: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (40 puff stitches)

Round 12: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (40 puff stitches)

Round 13: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches), join, ch 1. (80)

Round 14: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial). Ch 1. (80)

Round 15: SC in each stitch around. Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial). Change to accent color. Join, ch 2. (80)

Round 16: Puff stitch in first stitch, skip next stitch, *puff stitch in next stitch, skip a stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to the top of the first puff stitch, do not ch 2. (40 puff stitches)

Round 17: Sl st over to the space after the first puff stitch from the previous round, ch 2, puff stitch in the same space and in each puff stitch space around (including in the space after the last puff stitch of the previous round), change to main color, join, ch 1. (40 puff stitches)

Round 18: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (in the top of each puff stitch and each chain stitch between the puff stitches, join, ch 2. (80)

Round 19: DC in each stitch around, join, ch 2. (80)

Round 20: FPDC around first stitch (around first DC from previous round, not the chain), BPDC around next stitch. Continue alternating FPDC and BPDC around. Join to top of first FPDC stitch, ch 2. (64)

Round 21: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around (be sure to match up your stitches from the previous round so you are working a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC from the previous round). Join to top of first FPDC stitch, ch 2. (80)

Round 22: Alternate FPDC and BPDC stitches around (be sure to match up your stitches from the previous round so you are working a FPDC around each FPDC from the previous round and a BPDC around each BPDC from the previous round). Join to top of first FPDC stitch. (80)

Fasten off, cut yarn, and weave in ends. You’re all done!

If you haven’t sewn together the gap at the bottom of the cowl where you joined the foundation/chain together, be sure to do that now as the last step.

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole. Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

Other Helpful Photos:

In this section, you will find a few other “how to” photos to help you with working up your Jelly Bean Cowl. Note that these photos are from our Jelly Beanie but are showing the same stitch for a helpful visual.

I hope you found these photos helpful! For more visual instructions, please check out the step-by-step video tutorial for the Jelly Bean Cowl on my YouTube Channel!