The Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer is another pattern in the Peek-a-Boo series. Enjoy working up this textured Ear Warmer in all color combinations!
The Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer has such pretty texture created by a combination of simple stitches.
There are so many different color combinations you can choose for your Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer. I chose to use a light speckled yarn with a complementing brighter color so that the peek-a-boos are fun pops of color that show between the stitches. This ear warmer looks great in any color combination, such as two solid colors, a solid color and a variegated yarn, or using a speckled yarn with a solid color!
Enjoy working up this ear warmer and choosing fun color combinations for the peek-a-boos!
The Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer is part of the Peek-a-Boo pattern series on the blog. This series currently includes a Beanie and Messy Bun Beanie, but I’ll be adding more patterns to the series in the future!
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The Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!
- Worsted weight (#4) yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn in a main color and an accent color. You’ll need 70-130 yds, depending on the size of ear warmer you are making. The ear warmers pictured in this pattern were made with WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava yarn. The colorways in the photo below from top to bottom are Mulberry and Marina, Plummy Speckle and Freesia, Cherry .
- Since not all worsted weight yarns are created equally, if you are substituting with another worsted-weight yarn, try to pick one comparable. This yarn is a little on the heavier side of the worsted scale. If you go with a lighter worsted-weight, you may need to go up a hook size or start with a longer chain/foundation to ensure it will fit properly. See the gauge and pattern notes below.
- 5 mm crochet hook (if you crochet quite loosely, you might need to go down to a 4.5 hook so your ear warmer isn’t too big).
- Yarn needle (for weaving in ends and sewing on the ring in the center of the ear warmer)
- Ch – chain
- Sl St – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- FSC – foundation single crochet (see video tutorial)
- FPSC – font post single crochet
- Cluster V-Stitch (a modified version) – Two double crochet stitches, chain 1, two double crochet stitches, all worked in the same stitch.
- Crossed Double Crochet – Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch, then go back and DC in skipped stitch (this will layer the DC stitches so one is crossed over the other).
- 8 SC stitches = approx. 2” long
- Each section of the ear warmer, including one round of SC, Cluster V-stitches, Crossed DC stitches, SC, and FPSC, measures approx. 1.25-1.5 inches tall.
- When you finish the starting chain or foundation for the size of ear warmer you are making, make sure it is approximately the same length as what it states in the pattern for that size. This is so your ear warmer comes out the right size and fits properly.
- Here are the finished ear warmer measurements (approximate) for each size. Measurements were taken with the ear warmer laying flat.
- Toddler – width: 8”, height: 2.5”
- Child – width: 9”, height: 4”
- Teen – width: 10”, height: 4”
- Adult – width: 11”, height: 4”
- Always start the first stitch of the round in the same space as the chain 1 or chain 2. Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
- After the starting chain/foundation, this pattern is worked in joined rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will join to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chain 1 (or 2) and then start the next round of the pattern, beginning in the same stitch as the chain.
- When working this pattern, you’ll be using a main color and an accent color. You can keep both colors attached while you work the whole pattern. When you make a color change, just drop the main color and continue in the accent color. When you change back to the main color, you’ll pick it up and drop the accent color until you need it again. The colors carried up won’t be visible on the front of the ear warmer because they’ll be on the inside.
- Each size of this pattern includes the number of stitches in the starting chain or foundation as well the length (in inches) the starting chain or foundation should be. If your gauge is different than the one listed in the pattern, use the measurement information instead of the stitches to help with sizes. In order for the stitch pattern to work, your foundation single crochet should be a multiple of 3 (add one extra stitch if you are using a starting chain instead of a foundation).
- Photo Tutorial – I have some photos at the end of the pattern to help give you a visual of some of the instructions and stitches.
- Video Tutorial – There are a couple videos on my YouTube channel that will be helpful in working up this pattern.
The Pattern: Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer
- Below are the number of starting foundation stitches needed for each size of ear warmer, as well as the measurements for each foundation/chain. If you are using a starting chain instead of the foundation stitches, you’ll need to add one extra stitch to your chain.
- Toddler (ages 1-3 ~ 18-19” head circumference): 54 stitches (approx. 14”)
- Child (ages 4-10 ~19-20” head circumference): 60 stitches (approx. 16”)
- Teen (~ 20-21” head circumference): 63 stitches (approx. 17”)
- Adult (~22-23” head circumference): 66 stitches (approx. 18”)
- For starting chain method, measure the length after you have completed row/round 1 (the chain and the first row of SC) and compare it to the chart. For foundation stitches, the measurement can be taken when finished the row of foundation single crochet stitches.
- Remember, if you need to add or remove stitches to get the length given below, you’ll need to make sure the stitch count of each round is a multiple of 3.
Stitch counts at the end of each round are listed in the following order for each size: (Toddler, Child, Teen, Adult)
Row/Round 1: FSC 54, 60, 63, 66, change to accent color, join with a sl st to top of first FSC, ch 2.
Make sure you keep the right (front) side of the work facing out and towards you when you join, and make sure your foundation is not twisted.
There will be a gap at the bottom where the band is not connected (see photo tutorial). You can use your yarn needle to sew it together now or leave it until the end.
*If you prefer to start with a starting chain rather than a starting foundation, follow these row/round 1 instructions instead: Chain 54, 60, 63, 66, then add 1 additional chain. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each across, change to accent color, join to top of first SC with a sl st, ch 2. Continue to round 2 below.
Round 2: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 2. (18, 20, 21, 22 Cluster V-stitches)
If your ear warmer is curling as you work, don’t worry, it’ll straighten out when you add more rounds and stretch it around a head. Make sure your Cluster V-stitches are worked with a consistent tension as your first round.
Round 3: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round so your stitches stay in front of the clusters. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (54, 60, 63, 66) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.
Round 4: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (54, 60, 63, 66)
Round 5: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo or video tutorial), ch 1. (54, 60, 63, 66)
Round 6: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (54, 60, 63, 66)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).
Round 7: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 2. (18, 20, 21, 22 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 8: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round so your stitches stay in front of the clusters. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (54, 60, 63, 66)
Round 9: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (54, 60, 63, 66)
*If making the toddler size, don’t chain 1. Instead, fasten off and weave in ends here.
Round 10: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial), ch 1. (60, 63, 66)
Round 11: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (60, 63, 66)
Round 12: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 2. (20, 21, 22 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 13: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round so your stitches stay in front of the clusters. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (60, 63, 66)
If you’d like the adult sized ear warmer to have more height on it, repeat rounds 9-13 one more time before finishing off with round 14.
Round 14: SC in the first st and in each st around, join. (60, 63, 66)
Fasten off and cut yarn, leaving a long tail to use to add the gathered detail at the front (instructions below). If you did not sew together the bottom of the ear warmer earlier, you can use your yarn needle and starting yarn tail to do that now before cutting it.
Next, follow the instructions to add the gathered detail and ring in the center of the ear warmer.
These written instructions will walk you through adding the gathered section in the center of the ear warmer and sewing the ring around the middle. Be sure to look at the photos or check out the video tutorial for more description.
Adding the Gathered Detail to your Ear Warmer
Thread your yarn needle with your yarn tail (or a separate piece of yarn if you have already woven in the tail or it’s too short). Start by finding the seam on your ear warmer from where you joined at the end of each row. This is where the gathered section will be lined up. With your fingers, squeeze the rows of your ear warmer together, stacking the post stitch rows and the starting and ending rows together. You can decide how much or little you’d like to gather the center. Next, use your yarn needle to add a few stitches through the gathered section to hold it in place. Tie off your yarn and cut the ends.
Adding the Ring to the Center of your Ear Warmer
With your yarn and hook, make a chain long enough to fit snuggly around the gathered section and then work a SC in each stitch across your chain. I started with a chain of 15 for the child, teen, and adult size. For the toddler size, a chain of chain 10-12 was long enough. Fasten off, leaving one of the tails for sewing. *Note that a foundation single crochet would also work great for this part too.
Next, wrap the row of SC around the gathered section with the ends meeting on the inside, forming a ring around the ear warmer. Use your yarn needle to stitch the together the ends. Then secure it in place by adding some stitches through the ring, passing through the gathered ear warmer section. Tie off your ends, weave them in, and cut all tails.
Here are a few photos to help with some of the steps in making the Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer. Note that a few of these photos are from the Peek-a-Boo Beanie, but they still apply for this pattern. Please see the Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer video tutorial for more explanation and visual details.
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