The Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie has all of the great texture of the original Peek-a-Boo Beanie, but with a convenient hole at the top for a bun or ponytail!
If you’ve been loving the stitches and texture of the Peek-a-Boo Beanie, but wondered when there would be a messy bun version coming to the blog, your wait is over! Introducing the Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie! If you are a ponytail and bun wearer like me, you’ll appreciate the convenience of these beanies with the opening at the top.
The Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie has such squishy and beautiful texture created by the combination of front post single crochet stitches, cluster v-stitches, and crossed double crochet stitches. This is a bottom up beanie, so you’ll start the beanie by working the ribbing, joining it together, and then continuing up the height of the beanie until you reach the opening at the top.
What colors should you choose for your beanie? The Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie looks great in any color combination, such as two solid colors (as shown), a speckled yarn and a solid color, a solid and a variegated yarn, or just all in one color. The possibilities are endless so you can have fun making them in all different colors and combinations!
I hope you enjoy working up your beautiful Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie!
If you’re looking for the original Peek-a-Boo Beanie, you can find the pattern HERE.
If you’re looking for more messy bun beanie patterns to make, check out these other ones on the blog:
Remember to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! I’d also LOVE it if you followed @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram!
If you like crochet video tutorials, check out (and subscribe to) my Loops and Love Crochet YouTube Channel!
Click the image below to PIN the Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie Pattern for later!
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. This is done at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!
The Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!
Materials:
- Worsted Weight (#4) yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. You’ll need approx. 120-140yds of yarn, depending on which size of beanie you are making. This breaks down to 80-100 yds in a main color and 20-30yds in an accent color. For the beanies pictured in this pattern, I used WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava yarn in the colorways Mulberry and Tidepool for the dark purple and teal beanie. For the purple and variegated yarn beanie, I used I Love This Yarn in Lavender Sparkle and Paint Party. These are both heavier worsted-weight yarns. When substituting yarns, please check the gauge and adjust your hook size or tension as needed to get the size needed.
- 5 mm crochet hook – or hook size needed to get the gauge measurements below. If you crochet quite loosely or tightly, you may need to change your hook size so the beanie comes out the correct size.
- Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
Stitches Used:
- Ch – chain
- Sl St – slip stitch
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- FPSC – font post single crochet
- SC DEC (or Sc2tog) – single crochet decrease
- DC DEC (or Dc2tog) – double crochet decrease
- Cluster V-Stitch (a modified version) – Two double crochet stitches, chain 1, two double crochet stitches, all worked in the same stitch.
- Crossed Double Crochet – Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch, then go back and DC in skipped stitch (this will layer the DC stitches so one is crossed over the other).
Gauge
- 8 rows of ribbing = approx. 2” long
- When you finish the ribbing for the size of beanie you are making, make sure it is approximately the same length as what it states in the pattern for that size. This is so your beanie comes out the right size and fits properly.
- Each section of the beanie, including one round of Cluster V-Stitches, Crossed DC stitches, SC, and FPSC, measures approx. 1.25” tall.
Important Notes:
- Always start the first stitch of the round in the same space as the chain 1 or chain 2. Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
- This pattern is worked in joining rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
- When you are making the ribbed band, you should only need to stretch it gently to fit around your head. When you start working on the hat height and make the first row of SC and FPSC in the ends of the ribbing rows, be sure to keep your tension loose enough. If you work this round too tight, your hat will not have much stretch to it.
- If you are unsure about size, you can start with crocheting some of the ribbing and then measure it to check that your gauge is approximately the same.
- Photo Tutorial – I have some photos at the end of the pattern to help give you a visual of some of the instructions and stitches.
- Video Tutorial – Check out the video on my YouTube Channel for a tutorial on how to work up all the stitches in the Peek-a-Boo Beanie, which will show you all of the stitches you’ll need for working up the Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie. You can find the video HERE.
CHILD SIZE BEANIE
Approximately 4-10 years Head circumference: 19-21” Hat height: approx. 6.5”
Ribbed Band:
Starting in the main beanie color
Row 1: Ch 9, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn (8)
Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn (8)
Rows 3-60: Repeat row 2 (8)
At this point, the ribbing should measure about 15-15.5 inches long without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here). The ribbing height is approximately 2.25 inches.
Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch along each of the 8 stitches across the width of your beanie (you can SC in place of the sl sts here, if you’d like). When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Ch 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body. Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below or the video tutorial)
Hat body:
Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1 (60)
*These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing can stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing the beanie.
Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial below or video tutorial), ch 1. (60)
Round 3: SC in each st around, change color to accent color (if using), join, ch 2 (60)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial and video tutorial).
Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (20 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (60) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.
Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1 (60)
Round 7: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1 (60)
Round 8: SC in each st around, change color to accent color (if using), join, ch 2 (60)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).
Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (20 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 10: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (60)
Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around, join, ch 1 (48)
Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1 (48)
Round 13: SC in each st around, change color to accent color (if using), join, ch 2 (48)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).
Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, change to main color, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (16 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 15: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (48)
Round 16: *SC DEC, SC in next st repeat from * around, join, ch 1 (32)
Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1 (32)
Round 18: *SC DEC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1 (24)
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
TEEN/ADULT SIZE BEANIE
Head circumference: 22-23” Hat height: approx. 7.5
Note: For teen or smaller adult size, you may want to go down to a 4.5 mm hook to get a snugger fit.
Ribbed Band:
Starting in main beanie color
Row 1: Ch 10, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn (9)
Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn (9)
Rows 3-66: Repeat row 2 (9)
At this point, the ribbing should measure about 17.5-18 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here). The ribbing height is approximately 3 inches tall.
Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch along each of the 9 stitches across the width of your beanie (you can SC in place of the sl sts here, if you’d like). When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Ch 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body. Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below or video tutorial)
Hat body:
Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1 (66) *These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing can stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing the beanie.
Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1 (66)
Round 3: SC in each st around, change color to accent color, join, ch 2 (66)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial and video tutorial).
Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (22 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (66) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.
Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1 (66)
Round 7: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1 (66)
Round 8: SC in each st around, change color to accent color, join, ch 2 (66)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).
Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (22 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 10: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (66)
Round 11: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1 (66)
Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1 (66)
Round 13: SC in each st around, change color to accent color, join, ch 2 (66)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).
Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, change to main color, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (22 Cluster V-stitches)
Round 15: Sl st across next 2 sts so you are working in the ch 1 space in the center of the first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, SC in center of cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts in the 2 skipped sts following each cluster v-stitch from the last round, making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat around working a SC into the center of each cluster v-stitch and crossed DC stitches into the two skipped sts after each cluster v-stitch, join to first SC, ch 1. (66)
Round 16: *SC DEC, SC in next 9 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1 (60)
Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1 (60)
Round 18: SC in each stitch around, change to accent color, join, ch 2 (60)
*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).
Round 19: *DC DEC, DC in next st, repeat from *around, join, ch 1 (40)
Round 20: *SC DEC, SC in next st, repeat from *around, join. (30)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Photo Tutorial
I hope these photos help with some of the steps in working up your Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie! I also recommend you check out the video tutorial for more detail and in-depth instructions.
**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **
*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole. Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!