The Avery Beanie – Free Crochet Pattern

The Avery Beanie is such a fun beanie to work up!  The combination of double crochet cluster stitches and single crochet stitches create such beautiful texture. Plus, you’ll have so much fun choosing color combinations! Two solid colors look great together, or you can have fun mixing a solid color with a variegated yarn for a cool effect too!

The inspiration for the Avery Beanie crochet pattern came about when one of my daughters was in need of a new hat to make it through the rest of the winter season. The other one was getting a little small so I thought it was time to give her a new one. I love the texture of the 2DC Cluster stitch so I thought it would add nice texture to a beanie when combined with SC stitches, but also keeping it simple and quick enough to work up. I hope you enjoy this crochet pattern!

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Materials:

• Worsted Weight yarn (#4 weight) – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. You’ll need approx. 130-160 yards (depending on the size you are making), either in a solid color or a mixture of colors. For the beanies pictured in this pattern, I used a combination of I Love This Yarn and Red Heart Super Saver. These are both on the “thicker” end of the spectrum of worsted-weight. Since not all worsted-weight yarns are created equally, if you are substituting with another #4 yarn, be sure to check the gauge in the pattern. If you go with a “lighter” worsted-weight (like Caron Simply Soft, Red Heart Soft, and similar), you may need to go up a hook size.
• 5 mm crochet hook (I crochet a little bit on the tighter side and I used a 5mm hook. If you crochet loosely, it might be a good idea to change your hook size so the beanie comes out the right size. Check the gauge measurements listed below.
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Pom Pom – If you are planning on adding a fun pom pom to your Avery Beanie, both faux fur and yarn poms look great! If you are looking for faux fur pom poms, you can purchase them on Etsy or Amazon. There are sew on or snap on variations. Or you can make your own out of yarn and a pom pom maker (I have these ones!). Check out my Pom Pom Video Tutorial HERE! The Avery Beanie looks great without a pom pom too!

Stitches Used:

• Ch – chain
• Sl St – slip stitch
• SC – single crochet
• DC – double crochet
• SC DEC (or Sc2tog) – single crochet decrease
• Long SC – SC worked into a stitch from the previous round
• 2DC Cluster – Two Double Crochet Cluster (same as DC2TOG except in same stitch) – Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through all 3 remaining loops. See the video tutorial for this pattern to help you with the 2DC Cluster stitches.

Gauge

• 8 rows of ribbing = approx. 2” long
• 3 rows of 2DC Cluster stitches = approx. 2” high
• When you finish the ribbing for the size of beanie you are making, make sure it is approximately the same length as what it states in the pattern for that size.  This is so your beanie comes out the right size and fits properly.  

Important Notes:

• Chain stitches at the start of each round and between the 2DC Cluster stitches do not count towards stitch count for each round.
• When you are making the ribbed band, you should only need to stretch it gently to fit around your head. When you start working on the hat height and make the first row of SC and FPSC in the ends of the ribbing rows, be sure to keep your tension loose enough. If you work this round too tight, your hat will not have much stretch to it.
• I crochet a little on the tighter side. If you crochet quite loosely or more tightly, you may need to go up or down a hook size to get the desired hat size. Check the gauge of the pattern. If you are unsure about size, you can start with crocheting some of the ribbing and then measure it to check that your gauge matches closely.
• The ribbing of the beanie is worked in turned rows, while the height is worked in joined rounds. Joined rounds means that when you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch before starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
• When working the rounds for the height of the beanie, color changes will be made in the last stitch of the round before joining. Complete the last stitch as normal right up until the last yarn over, then yarn over in the new color and then join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
• Photo Tutorial – I have a photo tutorial section at the end of the pattern to help with some of the instructions. I hope you find the step by step photos helpful!

Video Tutorial – Check out the Avery Beanie Video Tutorial on my YouTube Channel to see how the stitches and rounds work up when following this written pattern.

TODDLER SIZE AVERY BEANIE

Approximately 1-2 years                    Head circumference: 18-19”              Hat height: approx. 7”      

Ribbed Band:

Row 1: In main beanie color, ch 7,  SC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (6)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (6)

Rows 3-56: Repeat row 2.

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 13-14 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it will be a little longer than the measurement here).

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first st (same st as ch 1) and in each st around, join with a sl st to first st (56)

*Make sure you do not work this round into the ribbing too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing is able to stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing it. 

Round 2: Ch 2, 2DC Cluster in first st, ch 1, skip next st, 2DC Cluster in next, ch 1, skip next st, repeat around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (28 Clusters)

Round 3: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches from the previous round, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (56) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.  

Round 4: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (28 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 5: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (56) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster. In the SC rounds it can be a little tight to get that last stitch in, but you should be able to squeeze it in right before the join from the last round of SC.  

Round 6: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (28 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

*We will now start decreasing in some of our rounds as we work towards the top of the beanie. Note that SC DEC stitches will be worked a SC and long SC stitch together in one stitch. See video tutorial if you have trouble with this.

*Following a decrease round, 2DC Cluster stitches may fall in a SC or Long SC stitch.

Round 7: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 5 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (48) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 8: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (24 Clusters) *Clusters in this round may be worked in the top of a SC or a long SC stitch.

Round 9: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (48) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster.

Round 10: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (24 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 11: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 4 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (40) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster.

Round 12: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (20 Clusters) *Clusters in this round may be worked in the top of a SC or a long SC stitch.

Round 13: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 3 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (32) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster.

Round 14: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (16 Clusters) *Clusters in this round may be worked in the top of a SC or a long SC stitch.

Round 15: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 2 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (24) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster.

Round 16: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (12 Clusters) *Clusters in this round may be worked in the top of a SC or a long SC stitch.

Round 17: Ch 1, SC DEC around, join (12)

Round 18: Ch 1, SC in each stitch around, join (12)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew top of hat closed.

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn.

You’re all done your Avery Beanie!

CHILD SIZE AVERY BEANIE

Approximately 3-10 years                  Head circumference: 19-21”              Hat height: approx. 7.5”

Ribbed Band:

Row 1: In main beanie color, ch 8,  SC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (7)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (7)

Rows 3-60: Repeat row 2.

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 15-15.5 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here).

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first st (same st as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st (60)

*Make sure you do not work this round into the ribbing too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing is able to stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing it. 

Round 2: Ch 2, 2DC Cluster in first st, ch 1, skip next st, 2DC Cluster in next, ch 1, skip next st, repeat around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (30 Clusters)

*See photo tutorial for help making the color change.

Round 3: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches from the previous round, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (60) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 4: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (30 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 5: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (60) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster. In the SC rounds it can be a little tight to get that last stitch in, but you should be able to squeeze it in right before the join from the last round of SC. 

Round 6: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (30 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 7: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (60) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster. In the SC rounds it can be a little tight to get that last stitch in, but you should be able to squeeze it in right before the join from the last round of SC. 

Round 8: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (30 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

*We will now start decreasing in some of our rounds as we work towards the top of the beanie. Note that SC DEC stitches will be worked a SC and long SC stitch together in one stitch. See video tutorial if you have trouble with this.

*Following a decrease round, 2DC Cluster stitches may fall in a SC or Long SC stitch.

Round 9: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 4 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (50) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 10: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (25 Clusters) *Clusters in this round may be worked in the top of a SC or a long SC stitch.

Round 11: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (50) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster.

Round 12: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (25 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 13: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 3 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (40) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 14: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (20 Clusters)

Round 15: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 2 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (30) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 16: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (15 Clusters)

Round 17: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next stitch (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (20) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 18: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (10 Clusters)

Round 19: Ch 1, SC DEC around, join (10)

Round 20: Ch 1, SC in each stitch around, join (10)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew top of hat closed.

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn.

You’re all done your Avery Beanie!

TEEN/ADULT SIZE AVERY BEANIE

Head circumference: 22-24”

Hat height: approx. 8.75”

Note: For teen or small adult, you may want to go down to a 4.5 mm hook to get a snugger fit.

Ribbed Band:

Row 1: In main beanie color, ch 10,  SC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each chain across. Chain 1, turn. (9)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across. Chain 1, turn. (9)

Rows 3-64: Repeat row 2.

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 16.5-17.5 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here).

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Chain 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first st (same st as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st (64)

*Make sure you do not work this round into the ribbing too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing is able to stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing it. 

Round 2: Ch 2, 2DC Cluster in first st, ch 1, skip next st, 2DC Cluster in next, ch 1, skip next st, repeat around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (32 Clusters)

*See photo tutorial for help making the color change.

Round 3: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches from the previous round, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (64) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch. 

Round 4: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (32 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 5: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (64) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster. In the SC rounds it can be a little tight to get that last stitch in, but you should be able to squeeze it in right before the join from the last round of SC. 

Round 6: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (32 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 7: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (64) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster. In the SC rounds it can be a little tight to get that last stitch in, but you should be able to squeeze it in right before the join from the last round of SC. 

Round 8: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (32 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

*We will now start decreasing in some of our rounds as we work towards the top of the beanie. Note that SC DEC stitches will be worked a SC and long SC stitch together in one stitch. See video tutorial if you have trouble with this.

*Following a decrease round, 2DC Cluster stitches may fall in a SC or Long SC stitch.

Round 9: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 6 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (56) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.

Round 10: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (28 Clusters) *Clusters in this round may be worked in the top of a SC or a long SC stitch.

Round 11: Ch 1, SC in top of first cluster, long SC into the skipped stitch between the cluster stitches, repeat around, change to main color, join to first SC (56) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch after the last cluster.

Round 12: Sl st over to next st (this is where your first long SC is from the last round), ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (28 Clusters) *Note that all clusters this round are worked in the top of the long SC stitches from the last round.

Round 13: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 5 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (48) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.

Round 14: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (24 Clusters) *Clusters may fall in the top of a SC or long SC.

Round 15: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 4 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (40) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.

Round 16: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (20 Clusters) *Clusters may fall in the top of a SC or long SC.

Round 17: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next 2 stitches (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (30) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.

Round 18: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (15 Clusters) *Clusters may fall in the top of a SC or long SC.

Round 19: Ch 1, *SC DEC, SC in next stitch (alternating SC and long SC stitches), repeat from * around, change to main color, join to first SC (20) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.

Round 20: Sl st over to next st, ch 2, *2DC Cluster, ch 1, skip next st, repeat from * around, change to accent color, sl st to join to first cluster (10 Clusters) *Clusters may fall in the top of a SC or long SC.

Round 21: Ch 1, SC DEC around, join to first SC (10) *Note that you will end with a long SC stitch.

Round 22: Ch 1, SC in each stitch around, join to first SC (10)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew top of hat closed.

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn.

You’re all done your Avery Beanie!

Photo Tutorial

In this section, you will find all of the step by step “how to” photos to help you with this pattern.

That’s it! You’re all done making your Avery Beanie! I hope you loved working up this pattern and how your beanie turned out!

If you liked making this Avery Beanie pattern, check out the other beanie patterns on the blog too!

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!