Peek-a-Boo Beanie – Free Crochet Pattern

The Peek-a-Boo Beanie is such a fun one to work up, especially with the pretty pops of color showing between the stitches!

Peek-a-Boo Beanie with yarn

Introducing the Peek-a-Boo Beanie! This one has such pretty texture created by the combination of front post single crochet stitches, cluster v-stitches, and crossed double crochet stitches. The Peek-a-Boo Beanie is a bottom up beanie, so you’ll start the beanie by working the ribbing, joining it together, and then continuing up the height of the beanie.

What colors should you choose for your beanie? The Peek-a-Boo Beanie looks great in any color combination, such as a speckled yarn and a solid color (as shown in this pattern), a solid and a variegated yarn, two solid colors, or just all in one color. You can have fun making them in all different colors and combinations!

Enjoy working up your beautiful Peek-a-Boo Beanie! If you are looking to make a messy bun beanie version, check out the Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie pattern.

If you’re looking for more beanie patterns to make, check out these other ones on the blog:

Jelly Beanie

Three Jelly Beanies side by side

Avery Beanie

Avery beanie worn by a child

Criss Cross Beanie

criss cross beanie worn by a child


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Click the image below to PIN the Peek-a-Boo Beanie Pattern for later!

Peek-a-Boo Beanie Pinterest Image

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The Peek-a-Boo Beanie crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Materials:

  • Worsted Weight (#4) yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for your Peek-a-Boo Beanie. You’ll need approx. 120-150yds of yarn, depending on which size of beanie you are making. This breaks down to 90-120 yds in a main color and 25-35yds in an accent color. For the beanies pictured in this pattern, I used WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava yarn in the colorways Plummy Speckle and Freesia for the white/purple beanie and Tidal Speckle and Cornflower for the white/blue beanie. As you know, not all worsted-weight yarns are created equally. This yarn is slightly heavier than other worsted weight #4 yarn, so if you are using a yarn that is on the thinner side, you may need to change your hook size as needed to get the gauge for the pattern.
  • 5 mm crochet hook – or hook size needed to get the gauge measurements below. If you crochet quite loosely or tightly, you may need to change your hook size so your Peek-a-Boo Beanie comes out the correct size.
  • Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
  • Pom Pom – If you are planning on adding a fun pom pom to your beanie, check these ones out HERE. There are sew on or snap on variations. Or you can make your own out of yarn and a pom pom maker. This beanie also looks great without a pom pom too!

Stitches Used:

  • Ch – chain
  • Sl St – slip stitch
  • SC – single crochet
  • DC – double crochet
  • FPSC – font post single crochet
  • SC DEC (or Sc2tog) – single crochet decrease
  • DC DEC (or Dc2tog) – double crochet decrease
  • Cluster V-Stitch (a modified version) – Two double crochet stitches, chain 1, two double crochet stitches, all worked in the same stitch.
  • Crossed Double Crochet – Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch, then go back and DC in skipped stitch (this will layer the DC stitches so one is crossed over the other).

Gauge

  • 8 rows of ribbing = approx. 2” long
  • When you finish the ribbing for the size of Peek-a-Boo Beanie you are making, make sure it is approximately the same length as what it states in the pattern for that size.  This is so your beanie comes out the right size and fits properly. 
  • Each section of the beanie, including one round of Cluster V-Stitches, Crossed DC stitches, SC, and FPSC, measures approx. 1.25” tall.

Important Notes:

  • Always start the first stitch of the round in the same space as the chain 1 or chain 2. Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
  • This pattern is worked in joining rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in same stitch as chain.
  • When you are making the ribbed band, you should only need to stretch it gently to fit around your head. When you start working on the hat height and make the first row of SC and FPSC in the ends of the ribbing rows, be sure to keep your tension loose enough. If you work this round too tight, your hat will not have much stretch to it.
  • If you are unsure about size, you can start with crocheting some of the ribbing and then measure it to check that your gauge is approximately the same.
  • Photo Tutorial – I have some photos at the end of the pattern to help give you a visual of some of the instructions and stitches you’ll find in this Peek-a-Boo beanie pattern.
  • Video Tutorial – I created a video tutorial on my YouTube Channel to show you how to work up all the stitches in the Peek-a-Boo Beanie. You can find the video HERE.
purple and white peek-a-boo beanie with a blue and white beanie halfway crocheted

TODDLER SIZE BEANIE

Approximately 1-3 years                        Head circumference: 18-19”                 Hat height: approx. 7”

Ribbed Band:

Start by working with your main beanie color.

Row 1: Ch 7, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (6)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn. (6)

Rows 3-54: Repeat row 2. (6)

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 13.5-14.5 inches long without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here). The ribbing height is approximately 1.75.”

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch along each of the 6 stitches across the width of your beanie (you can SC in place of the sl sts here, if you’d like). When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Ch 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below or the video tutorial)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (54)

*These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing can stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing the beanie. 

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that may be hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial below or video tutorial). Ch 1. (54)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (54)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial and video tutorial).

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (18 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (54) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (54)

Round 7: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches. Ch 1.  (54)

Round 8: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (54)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (18 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 10: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (54)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 7 sts, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (48)

Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1.  (48)

Round 13: *SC DEC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from * around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (42)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (15 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 15: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (45)

Round 16: *SC DEC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around, join, ch 1 (36)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1  (36)

Round 18: *DC DEC, DC in next st, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (24)

Round 19: *SC DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (16)

Round 20: SC DEC around, join. (8)

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn.

You’re all done! I hope that you enjoyed working up the Peek-a-Boo Beanie and will make many more in all different color combinations! Or you can check out the other beanies on the blog!

CHILD SIZE BEANIE

Approximately 4-10 years                      Head circumference: 19-21”                 Hat height: approx. 7.5”

Ribbed Band:

Start by working with your main beanie color.

Row 1: Ch 9, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (8)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn. (8)

Rows 3-60: Repeat row 2. (8)

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 15-15.5 inches long without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here). The ribbing height is approximately 2-2.25 inches.

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch along each of the 8 stitches across the width of your beanie (you can SC in place of the sl sts here, if you’d like). When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Ch 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below or the video tutorial)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (60)

*These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing can stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing the beanie. 

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that may be hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial below or video tutorial). Ch 1. (60)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change color to accent color, join, ch 2. (60)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial and video tutorial).

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (20 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (60) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (60)

Round 7: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches. Ch 1. (60)

Round 8: SC in each st around, change color to accent color, join, ch 2. (60)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (20 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 10: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (60)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (48)

Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1.  (48)

Round 13: SC in each st around, change color to accent color, join, ch 2. (48)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (16 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 15: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (48)

Round 16: *SC DEC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (42)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 2. (42)

Round 18: *DC DEC, DC in next st, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (28)

Round 19: *SC DEC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (21)

Round 20: *SC DEC, SC in next st, repeat from * around, join, ch 1. (14)

*If you find that the hat needs a little bit more height, you can work rounds 19 and 20 in HDC or DC stitches instead of SC.

Round 21: SC DEC in each st around, join. (7)

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn.

You’re all done your Peek-a-Boo Beanie! I hope you enjoyed this pattern and love how your beanie turned out!

Peek-a-Boo Beanie in turquoise and white

TEEN/ADULT SIZE BEANIE

Age: 11+ Head circumference: 22-23”                            Hat height: approx. 8.75”

Note: For teen or smaller adult size, you may want to go down to a 4.5 mm hook to get a snugger fit for your Peek-a-Boo Beanie.

Ribbed Band:

Start by working with your main beanie color.

Row 1: Ch 10, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (9)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn. (9)

Rows 3-66: Repeat row 2. (9)

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 17.5-18 inches long, without stretching it. (If you’ve already stretched it to fit around a head, it might be a little longer than the measurement here). The ribbing height is approximately 3 inches tall.

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch along each of the 9 stitches across the width of your beanie (you can SC in place of the sl sts here, if you’d like). When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the stitches are on the inside and your loop is at the top. Ch 1 and start the instructions below for the hat body.  Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See photo tutorial below or video tutorial)

Hat body:

Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (66) *These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly. It’s best to keep a looser tension here so that the ribbing can stretch as much as needed to fit on the head of the person who is wearing the beanie. 

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round, even the last one that is hard to get into sometimes. Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (66)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (66)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial and video tutorial).

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (22 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (66) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (66)

Round 7: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (66)

Round 8: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (66)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (22 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 10: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (66)

Round 11: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (66)

Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (66)

Round 13: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (66)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (22 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 15: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (66)

Round 16: *SC DEC, SC in next 9 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (60)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1.  (60)

Round 18: *SC DEC, SC in next 2 sts, repeat from * around, change to accent color, join, ch 1. (45) *Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 19: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (15 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 20: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch (changing back to the main color), ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (45)

Round 21: *SC DEC, SC in next 1 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (30)

Round 22: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 2.  (30)

Round 23: *DC DEC, DC in next st, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (20)

*If you find your hat height getting a little too tall, you can work round 23 using SC stitches instead of DC. If you’d like to make it taller, you can work round 21 in DC stitches as well.

Round 24: *SC DEC in each stitch around, join. (10)

Fasten off, leaving a tail to close the top of the hat.

Closing the top of the hat: Use your yarn needle to run yarn under the front loops of each stitch around. When you are through all of the front loops, pull yarn tight to close hole. Sew around the stitches in the circle one more time and then weave in ends before cutting yarn.

You’re all done your Peek-a-Boo Beanie! I hope you enjoyed this pattern and love your new beanie! Now you can make them in all different color combinations! Or, you can find a few more free beanie patterns on the blog to try next.

Peek-a-Boo Beanie in I Love This Yarn (Amethyst and Day Dreamery Print)
Peek-a-Boo Beanie in I Love This Yarn (Amethyst and Day Dreamery Print)

Photo Tutorial

I hope these photos help with some of the steps in working up your Peek-a-Boo Beanie! I also recommend you check out the video tutorial for more detail and in-depth instructions.

How to join the ribbing for your Peek-a-Boo Beanie
How to crochet FPSC stitches
How to join at the end of the FPSC round for Peek-a-Boo Beanie
Cluster v stitch diagram for Peek-a-Boo Beanie
How to work criss cross and SC stitches
Peek-a-Boo Beanie rounds labeled
How to sew the top of the beanie closed
Peek-a-Boo Beanie Pinterest Pin Image

**Want to be kept in the loop? Be sure to like Loops and Love Crochet on Facebook and join the Loops and Love Crochet Group! Don’t forget to follow @loopsandlovecrochet on Instagram! Remember to tag Loops and Love Crochet when you post your fnished projects on social media! I’d love to see them! **

*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole.  Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

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