Peek-a-Boo Fingerless Gloves Loops & Love Crochet

The Peek-a-Boo Fingerless Gloves are another fun pattern in the Peek-a-Boo crochet pattern series on the blog! They have such fun texture and are quick to work up. Have fun working up your fingerless gloves in all different colors!

adult and child sized peek-a-boo fingerless gloves

If you are familiar with our Peek-a-Boo crochet pattern series so far, there’s another fun addition to the set! These Peek-a-Boo Fingerless Gloves will match perfectly with the beanie, messy bun beanie, and ear warmer. You can make a beautiful matching set with a hat and the fingerless gloves.

Check out the Peek-a-Boo Beanie, Peek-a-Boo Messy Bun Beanie, and Peek-a-Boo Ear Warmer crochet patterns on the blog!

This fingerless gloves pattern includes three sizes: child, teen, and adult. I can picture an adorable mommy and me set with the size options available too!

If you have not made any of the Peek-a-Boo crochet patterns yet, you’ll love working this one up! The combination of stitches creates such pretty texture with fun pops of color in between!

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PIN the Peek-a-Boo Fingerless Gloves crochet pattern to your favorite Pinterest board to save it for later!

pinterest image for peek-a-boo fingerless gloves

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The Peek-a-Boo Fingerless Gloves crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you’d like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you may purchase it for a small fee from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. Thank you so much for supporting Loops & Love Crochet!

Keep reading below for all of the details, as well as the fingerless gloves crochet pattern!

Materials

Worsted weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. The fingerless gloves pictured in this pattern were made using WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted yarn. This yarn is a bit on the “heavier” side of the worsted-weight yarn scale. If you are substituting with another worsted-weight yarn, try to pick one comparable and be sure to check the gauge of the pattern to make sure your gloves turn out the correct size. The fingerless gloves pictured in this pattern were made with the Tidal Speckle and Marina colorways for the adult sized pair. The child-sized fingerless gloves were made with Cherry Speckle and Rouge colorways.
- Yardage – you’ll need approx. 90-160 yds total, depending on the size of fingerless gloves you are making. This splits into approx. two-thirds of the yarn in the main color and one-third in the accent color.
5 mm crochet hook – I use this crochet hook. I crochet a little on the tighter side and I used a 5mm hook. If you crochet loosely, it might be a good idea to go down to a 4.5 or 4mm hook so your gloves aren’t too big. Checking your gauge will be helpful too.
Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches Used

Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
FPSC – front post single crochet
SC DEC (or Sc2tog) – single crochet decrease
DC DEC (or Dc2tog) – double crochet decrease
Cluster V-Stitch (a modified version) – Two double crochet stitches, chain 1, two double crochet stitches, all worked in the same stitch.
Crossed Double Crochet – Skip first stitch, DC in next stitch, then go back and DC in skipped stitch (this will layer the DC stitches so one is crossed over the other).

Gauge

8 rows of ribbing = approx. 2” long

Finished Size

Child Size – approx. 3.25” w x 5” h
Teen Size – approx. 3.75” w x 7” h
Adult Size – approx. 4.25” w x 7.5” h

Important Notes:

Always start the first stitch of the round in the same space as the chain 1 or chain 2. Chain stitches at the start of each round do not count towards stitch count.
This pattern is worked in joined rounds. When you finish the stitches of one round, you will be joining to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, chaining 1 (or 2) and then starting the next round of the pattern, starting in the same stitch as the chain 1 (or 2).
If you are unsure about size, you can start with crocheting some of the ribbing and then measure it to check that your gauge is approximately the same.
Color changes – this pattern is worked up with two colors of yarn. Both colors can stay attached to the project. When a color change is made, just drop the first color and pick up the next one from where you left off with it. This way you’ll have less ends to weave in.
Photo Tutorial – I have a few photos at the end of the pattern to help give you a visual of some of the instructions and stitches for working up your fingerless gloves.

Video Tutorial – To see a visual of the stitches working up the Peek-a-Boo Fingerless Gloves, please watch the Peek-a-Boo Beanie video tutorial on my YouTube Channel. This beanie uses all the same stitches so the tutorial will be helpful for this pattern too. You can find the video HERE.

CHILD-SIZED FINGERLESS GLOVES

*See the adult-sized fingerless gloves pattern for photos along the way.

Ribbed Band (Wrist):

Start with the main color.

Row 1: Ch 7, SC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (6)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn. (6)

Rows 3-21: Repeat row 2. (6)

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 5 inches long, without stretching it. If you need to add or remove rows from the ribbing to make it longer or shorter, remember to keep the number of rows a multiple of 3.

Fold ribbing in half and join ends with a slip stitch. Then slip stitch in each stitch across. When you get to the end, flip the ribbing so the inside of it is now on the outside. The outside will be the “right side” of the glove. Now, making sure the loop where you left off is at the top of the ribbing, chain 1 and start the instructions below for the rest of the glove. Your first SC stitch will be in the same stitch as the chain 1. (See video tutorial or photo tutorial at the end of the pattern).

Now continue below with the instructions for the left or right hand of the fingerless gloves.

Fingerless Glove Body (Left Hand):

Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (21) *These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly.

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure to go around each of the stitches from the previous round (the last one can sometimes be tricky). Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so the next round is not worked into the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (21)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (21)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches – shown in photo tutorial and video tutorial).

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (7 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster v-stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (21) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (21)

*The thumbhole will be created in rounds 7 and 8.

Round 7: FPSC in first 2 sts, chain 5, skip next 3 sts, FPSC in next 16 sts, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (24 stitches – 19 SC and 5 chains)

Round 8: SC in first 3 sts (making sure you are working in the stitches behind the FPSC stitches, SC in each of the 5 chain stitches, then SC in the next 16 stitches (working behind the post stitches again), change to accent color, join, ch 2. (24)

*Note – It is important you have the 24 SC stitch count after round 8 so the Cluster V-stitches continue to work out for the rest of the pattern. If you are having trouble getting the correct stitch count, when placing the last 16 SC stitches, the first one will go in the next stitch after the 3 stitches that were skipped creating the thumbhole. (If you look behind the chain, you’ll see the 3 skipped stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (8 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 10: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (24)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (21)

Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. (21)

Round 13: SC in each st around, join. (21)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. The left fingerless glove is now complete.

To make the fingerless glove for the right hand, start with the wrist (ribbed band) instructions above before continuing the glove body instructions for the right hand below.

Fingerless Glove Body (Right Hand):

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round (the last one can sometimes be tricky). Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so the next round is not worked into the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (21)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (21)

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (7 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (21)

*The thumbhole will be created in rounds 7 and 8.

Round 7: FPSC in first 16 sts, chain 5, skip next 3 sts, FPSC in last 2 sts, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so the next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (24 stitches – 19 SC and 5 chains)

Round 8: SC in first 16 sts (making sure you are working in the stitches behind the FPSC stitches, SC in each of the 5 chain stitches, then SC in the last 3 stitches (working behind the post stitches again), change to accent color, join, ch 2. (24)

*Note – It is important you have the 24 SC stitch count after round 8 so the Cluster V-stitches continue to work out for the rest of the pattern. If you are having trouble getting the correct stitch count, when placing the last 2 SC stitches, the first one will go in the next stitch after the 3 stitches that were skipped creating the thumbhole. (If you look behind the chain, you’ll see the 3 skipped stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (8 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 6 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (21)

Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. (21)

Round 13: SC in each st around, join. (21)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. You’re all done!

Teen-Sized Fingerless Gloves

*See the adult-sized fingerless gloves pattern for photos along the way!

Ribbed Band (Wrist):

Start with the main color.

Row 1: Ch 9, SC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (8)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn. (8)

Rows 3-24: Repeat row 2. (8)

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 6 inches long, without stretching it. If you need to add or remove rows from the ribbing to make it longer or shorter, remember to keep the number of rows a multiple of 3.

Now continue below with the instructions for the left or right hand of the fingerless gloves.

Fingerless Glove Body (Left Hand):

Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (24) *These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly.

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round (the last one can sometimes be tricky). Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (24)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (24)

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (8 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster v-stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (24) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (24)

*The thumbhole will be created in rounds 7 and 8.

Round 7: FPSC in first 2 sts, chain 7, skip next 4 sts, FPSC in next 18 sts, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (27)

Round 8: SC in first 2 sts (making sure you are working in the stitches behind the FPSC stitches, SC in each of the 7 chain stitches, then SC in the next 18 stitches (working behind the post stitches again), change to accent color, join, ch 2. (27)

*Note – It is important you have the 27 SC stitch count after round 8 so the Cluster V-stitches continue to work out for the rest of the pattern. If you are having trouble getting the correct stitch count, when placing the last 27 SC stitches, the first one will go in the next stitch after the 4 stitches that were skipped creating the thumbhole. (If you look behind the chain, you’ll see the 4 skipped stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (9 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 7 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (24)

Round 12: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (24)

Round 13: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (24)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (8 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 15: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster-v stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (24)

Round 16: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (24)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. (24)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. The left fingerless glove is now complete.

To make the fingerless glove for the right hand, start with the wrist (ribbed band) instructions above before continuing the glove body instructions for the right hand below.

Fingerless Glove Body (Right Hand):

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round (the last one can sometimes be tricky). Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (24)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (24)

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (8 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster v-stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (24) *See video tutori al to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (24)

*The thumbhole will be created in rounds 7 and 8.

Round 7: FPSC in first 18 sts, chain 7, skip next 4 sts, FPSC around last 2 sts, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (27)

Round 8: SC in first 18 sts (making sure you are working in the stitches behind the FPSC stitches, SC in each of the 7 chain stitches, then SC in the last 2 stitches (working behind the post stitches again), change to accent color, join, ch 2. (27)

*Note – It is important you have the 27 SC stitch count after round 8 so the Cluster V-stitches continue to work out for the rest of the pattern. If you are having trouble getting the correct stitch count, when placing the last 2 SC stitches, the first one will go in the next stitch after the 4 stitches that were skipped creating the thumbhole. (If you look behind the chain, you’ll see the 4 skipped stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (9 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 7 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (24)

Round 13: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (24)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (8 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 16: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (24)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. (24)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. You’re all done with the teen-sized fingerless gloves.

Adult-Sized Fingerless Gloves

Ribbed Band (Wrist):

Start with the main color.

Row 1: Ch 11, SC in 2^nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (10)

Row 2: SC in back loops only across, ch 1, turn. (10)

Rows 3-27: Repeat row 2. (10) **For teen size, stop after row 24.

At this point, the ribbing should measure about 7 inches long, without stretching it (6 inches for teen size). If you need to add or remove rows from the ribbing to make it longer or shorter, remember to keep the number of rows a multiple of 3.

Now continue below with the instructions for the left or right hand of fingerless gloves.

Fingerless Glove Body (Left Hand):

Round 1: SC in first st (same stitch as ch 1) and in each st around. Join with a sl st to first st, ch 1. (27) *These stitches are worked into the ribbing, one at the end of each ribbing row. Make sure you don’t work this round too tightly.

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round (the last one can sometimes be tricky). Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (27)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (27)

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (9 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster v-stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (27) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

ribbing with cluster v stitches. Showing working the next round of stitches

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (27)

*The thumbhole will be created in rounds 7 and 8.

Round 7: FPSC in first 2 sts, chain 8, skip next 5 sts, FPSC in next 20 sts, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (30)

Round 8: SC in first 2 sts (making sure you are working in the stitches behind the FPSC stitches, SC in each of the 8 chain stitches, then SC in the next 20 stitches (working behind the post stitches again), change to accent color, join, ch 2. (30)

*Note – It is important you have the 30 SC stitch count after round 8 so the Cluster V-stitches continue to work out for the rest of the pattern. If you are having trouble getting the correct stitch count, when placing the last 20 SC stitches, the first one will go in the next stitch after the 5 stitches that were skipped creating the thumbhole. (If you look behind the chain, you’ll see the 5 skipped stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (10 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 8 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (27)

Round 13: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (27)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (9 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 16: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (27)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. (27)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. The left fingerless glove is now complete.

To make the fingerless glove for the right hand, start with the wrist (ribbed band) instructions above before continuing the glove body instructions for the right hand below.

Fingerless Glove Body (Right Hand):

Round 2: FPSC in each stitch around. Make sure you go around each of the stitches from the previous round (the last one can sometimes be tricky). Join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the previous round (behind the FPSC round). This is so your next round is not worked in the post stitches (see photo tutorial or video tutorial), ch 1. (27)

Round 3: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (27)

Round 4: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (9 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 5: Sl st in next stitch, then sl st into ch 1 space in center of first cluster v-stitch, changing back to the main color, ch 1, *SC in center of first cluster v-stitch, work crossed DC sts down into the 2 skipped sts following the cluster v-stitch (skip first st, DC in next st, go back and DC in skipped st), making sure to yarn over in front of the cluster v-stitch round. Repeat from * around, join to first SC, ch 1. (27) *See video tutorial to see a visual of working this round.

Round 6: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (27)

*The thumbhole will be created in rounds 7 and 8.

Round 7: FPSC in first 20 sts, chain 8, skip next 5 sts, FPSC around last 2 sts, join with a sl st to first FPSC. Then sl st back to the first SC of the last round (behind the FPSC round) so your next round is not worked in the post stitches, ch 1. (30)

Round 8: SC in first 20 sts (making sure you are working in the stitches behind the FPSC stitches, SC in each of the 8 chain stitches, then SC in the last 2 stitches (working behind the post stitches again), change to accent color, join, ch 2. (30)

*Note – It is important you have the 30 SC stitch count after round 8 so the Cluster V-stitches continue to work out for the rest of the pattern. If you are having trouble getting the correct stitch count, when placing the last 2 SC stitches, the first one will go in the next stitch after the 5 stitches that were skipped creating the thumbhole. (If you look behind the chain, you’ll see the 5 skipped stitches).

Round 9: Cluster V-stitch in first stitch, skip 2 stitches, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1 (10 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 11: *SC DEC, SC in next 8 sts, repeat from *around, join, ch 1. (27)

Round 13: SC in each st around, change to accent color, join, ch 2. (27)

*Make sure you are not working in the post stitches. Your SC stitches should be going into the round before the FPSC round (these are the stitches behind the FPSC stitches).

Round 14: Cluster V-stitch in first st, skip 2 sts, *cluster v-stitch in next, skip 2 sts, repeat from *around, join to first stitch, do not ch 1. (9 Cluster V-stitches)

Round 16: SC in the first st and in each st around, join, ch 1. (27)

Round 17: FPSC in each st around, join with a sl st to first FPSC. (27)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. You’re all done with the adult-sized fingerless gloves!

I hope you enjoyed working up this crochet pattern and are in love with your new fingerless gloves! Next, you can make them in all kinds of fun color combinations, or with neutrals as well.

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*You may make and sell any items made from my patterns, but please link back to my blog or Loops & Love Crochet as the designer. Please do not copy this pattern or photos and share as your own, in part or in whole. Instead, link back to the Loops and Love Crochet blog (especially when selling items you make from my patterns). Thank you!

Other Helpful Photos:

In this section, you will find a few other “how to” photos to help you with working up your fingerless gloves. Note that these photos are from our other patterns but are showing the same stitch for a helpful visual.